
Class _SF4i5:3 
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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Rabbit Culture 
and Standard 




BY 

THE LATE W. F. ROTH, M. D. 

AND 

CHARLES T. CORNMAN 

REVISED BY 
C. R. DEARDORFF 



The Standards contained herein have been revised to conform, in 
point valuations, to the latest official Standards, as adopted by the lead- 
ing pet stock associations. The word descriptions used in the first 
edition of this work have been adopted by the pet stock organizations 
with but slight changes in wording and arrangement, without altering 
the meaning or application, hence, no change in that respect necessary, 
except to add description of new varieties, thus bringing this edition 
down-to-date in every particular. 






Copyright 1914—1916—1918 

By THE ITEM PUBLISHING CO. 

Sellersville, Pa. 



Fourth Edition — Revised and Up-To-Date 

Copyright 1919 

By THE ITEM PUBLISHING CO. 

Sellersville, Pa. 



DEC -3 1919 



Printed by the 

POULTRY ITEM PRESS 

Sellersville, Pa. 



©CI.A5:U)811 



Index to Articles 



Foreword 5 

To our Friends and Readers, Old and New 8 

Rabbit Culture 9 

Varieties of Domestic Rabbits 14 

The English Lop 14 

French Lop 20 

Dutch 20 

Angora 24 

Himalayan 29 

Silver Grey 34 

Silver Fawn, Silver Brown and Silver Blue 37 

English 38 

Polish 39 

Havanas 40 

Black and Tan , 41 

Imperial 42 

Selfs 42 

American Blue 43 

Japanese 43 

The Flemish Giant 44 

Grey Flemish Giants 50 

Solid Colored Giants 51 

American Spotted Giants 51 

Belgian Giants 53 

The New Zealand Reds 53 

The Belgian Hare 57 

Table of Weights 80 

Breeding, Building Up a Str„:n and Inbreeding 81 

Pedigree 86 

Feeding 87 

Hutches 91 

An Ideal Rabbitry 96 

Yards 102 

Preparation for Show Room 105 

The Rabbit Hospital and Medicii.e Chest 108 

Ailments of Rabbits 112 

Castration 115 

Tanning the Skiiis 116 

Nurse Does 119 

Pedigree and Registration 120 

Condensed Information and Rules for the Rabbitry 122 

Preparation for the Table 125 



Index to Illustrations 



Portrait of C. R. Deardorff 8 

English Lop, Colored 13 

English Lop 15 

Black and White Lop 16, 

Ideal Dutch 22 

White Angora 25 

Black and White Angora 26 

Himalayan 31 

Trio of High Class Himalayans 32 

Silver Grey 35 

Ideal English 35 

English 36 

Steel Grey Flemish Giant 45 

A Good Steel Flemish Doe 46 

American Spotted 52 

A Prize Winning New Zealand 55 

Another Prize Winning New Zealand 56 

Good Belgian Hare Doe 56 

Ideal Belgian Hare 65 

A Mother Doe and Her Family 66 

American Spotted 79 

Black Giant 85 

English 86 

Line Breeding Chart 83 

Hutches 92-100 

Fur Caps 117 

An Ideal Outdoor Hutch 118 

Inside Hutches 121 

Black Giant 124 



Foreword 



DR. W. F. ROTH died September 3, 1911. At the time of 
his death he was under contract with the Poultry Item, 
of Sellersville, Pa., to write a brochure on rabbits. The 
manuscript in an unfinished condition passed into our hands after 
his demise. The fact that Dr. Roth was not permitted to finish 
this work is one deeply to be regretted. He stood out as the 
greatest authority on this subject the United States has yet pro- 
duced. It was his desire to erect this as a monument that would 
stand the test of time, but we have here another illustration of 
how man proposes and God disposes. 

The intent of this brochure is to present the rabbit as a 
Fancy; an industry of utility value. This means its successful 
breeding for profitable and useful purposes as a fancy and for 
food. 

It was not any fault of the rabbit that the "boom" some 
years back fell flat; but it was the fault of a false understanding 
of a venture of this sort by a "syndicate" of indiscreet, if not 
dishonest, promoters. The country was not yet ripe for the re- 
cognition by rush methods of an industry both new and foreign; 
and if anything, the hasty, vivid, and glaring claims were too 
palpably overwrought for intelligent absorption by a large and 
otherwise preoccupied community. America was too long and 
wide of expanse, with too well supplied a market of all foods 
which were then yet too honestly placed on the consumer's table, 
for him to realize that the rabbit was an actual necessity, "n 
fact, he didn't need it. If he desired "rabbit," which was hereto- 
fore considered more a game than domestic food, the woods, fields 
and prairies were full of it. But things are diffei'ent now. In 
the last decade the wild animal has become decidedly scarce; 
poultry is kept at a continual advance and almost prohibitive 
price, and those manipulating other food stuffs have made nu- 
merous products very close to a luxury, notably the meats. Nor 
is our population decreasing among any class except the "400" 
and food we must have. The necessity for food at more reason- 
able prices becomes more apparent every day by reason of the 
present prices being entirely inconsistent with the wage of the 
moderate working class — that class which needs most at all 
times. This necessity has even forced itself vaguely upon the 
dim vision of "statesmen" occupying the State Legislative chairs 
to the extent that the 1907 Legislature of Pennsylvania enacted a 
law permitting the trading in slaughtered Belgians on the same 



footing as fowls in the open market the year round. We should 
all be grateful for this act, for it is largely a recognition of a 
meat for public consumption that has hitherto been considered 
more game than domestic. It places the rearing of the domestic 
rabbit as an industry and fancy on the same footing as that of 
fowls. What is now before the breeder is the exercise of wisdom, 
prudence and judicious methods essential to the education of a 
consuming public to the value of this new meat as a reasonably 
priced food. Nor should this be especially difficult, since the 
meat of the rabbit is unquestionably the most dainty and most 
nutritious of all meats. As an animal, the domestic rabbit is 
the cleanest and most prolific of all animals used for food, and 
weight for weight, it costs less to produce five pounds of meat 
than any other. 

In France, Belgium, and to a great extent in England and 
Germany, the rabbit is largely the meat food of the peasant 
population, owing not only to the delicacy and nutritious value 
of the flesh, but for its economic production. 

The people of some foreign countries have passed through 
sad experiences relative to their meat supply, and while we in 
big America do not anticipate grave seriousness that our supply 
will run out, it is withal a serious issue with the dependent class- 
es in our large cities to an extent involving millions. The daily 
papers publish thrilling stories in almost every issue of instances 
where suffering for lack of food, and meat in particular, are 
causes of suicide, sickness and even riots. Frequently uprisings 
by the poor were held from grave results by the Government 
making itself indirectly responsible for bringing about a reduc- 
tion in the rate, so inordinately placed by the beef trust, which 
controlled almost every pound of beef and pork handled in city 
trade. 

I cannot say how the essentials for living are manipulated 
in foreign countries — whether trusts or syndicates exist to make 
prices as they please — ^but if things do not change here by some 
authority more powerful than the moneyed monopolizers of the 
commodities of life, we need not go among the poor of foreign 
nations to find scarcity of food. As a people we are no better 
than our foreign brethren. We may be richer— at the present 
time— laut if we keep on wasting things by inordinate living, 
misguided economy and without thought for next week or next 
month we are very liable one morning to wake up hungry. 

Furthermore, statistics inform us that millions of poor 
people throughout all civilized countries can afford to eat meat 
no oftener than once a week, and many none the year round. 
Why this should be so I cannot understand. I do know, though, 

6 



that the environments of the working classes in the cities are 
daily becoming more impossible in the way of securing food, 
and our country of large, free and abundant America is not by 
any means so secure within itself as to be immune from possible 
visitations of disaster in many forms affecting the food supply. 
Once a nation tolerates its business integrity to become so cor- 
rupt that business men obstruct food from reaching a distribu- 
ting market in order to sustain an inordinate high price over the 
pretext of scarcity, and allow that food (meat and vegetables) 
to rot, while people are in want and starving, it is not without 
the bounds of reason to suppose that such flagrant injustice will 
go unpunished by the God of Nations. It is a question whether 
the densest heathen in any section of the world would pursue 
such tactics to punish an enemy. 

These remarks are not inapropos to my subject under con- 
sideration, from the fact that the opportunities at hand in the 
rearing of rabbits makes it possible to offset much of the in- 
justice endured by those who need meat and can't afford to 
secure it; for these little useful and delicate morsels of flesh can 
be reared in most any vacant space from a corner on the farm to 
a four by eight back yard or cellar of a town house. The ra;bbit 
is thus utilized by the peasant and poorer classes in foreign 
countries, and there is no reason why it should not be so utilized 
in this country, and made a staple food on the same basis as 
beef, fowl and fish. 

Why all these arguments should be necessary in behalf of 
an industry that merits the closest recognition without them, is 
indeed strange when considered from any point of view — for 
instance: during the open season for "cotton tails" thousands 
upon thousands are killed by all manner of disagreeable and 
unsanitary means; placed on market, and sold at prices twice 
the actual value of meat per pound, considered even as a deli- 
cacy. Why not a far more desirable, cleanly, more readily ob- 
tainable at all times, more nutritious, and cheaper meat produced 
by the domestic rabbit ? Observe the menu cards of hotels, res- 
taurants and other resorts of the epicure and note lobsters, crab, 
turtle, and a dozen other disgusting and indigestible things pre- 
pared a la mode at fancy prices — none better, so clean, so diges- 
tible, more dainty, or so cheap as the unapproachable loin of a 
seasonably prepared rabbit. Why is this superb meat overlook- 
ed, or shall I say, neglected, for no reason whatever. I am sure 
once an intelligent acquaintance is had with it through the med- 
ium of judicious culinary experiment, it will become as staple as 
all the other meats, and the rearing of the domestic rabbit will 
be an industry of necessity. ^^^^_ ^_ CORNMAN. 



To Our Friends and 

Readers, Old and New: 

THE RAPID SALE of the third edition of Rabbit Culture 
and Standard, and the many kind words of commenda- 
tion we have received have been very gratifying to both 
the publishers and myself. Some few have offered 
criticisms and suggestions in a kindly way, and these we have 
given consideration in preparing the fourth edition — chiefly 
among which are the abbreviation and omission of obsolete mat- 



C. K. DEARDOUFF 



tor pertaining to the Belgian Hare, and the addition of new 
chapters on practical phases of the rabbit business. The stand- 
ards have also been brought down to date. 

Sincerely believing we are offering the rabbit industry a 
work of superior merit, better and more practical even than 
former editions of this work, we submit cur efforts for your 
kind consideration and approval. 

Sincerely yours, 

C. R. DEARDORFF 
North Judson, Ind., Sept. DO, 1919. 



Rabbit Culture 



By W. F. Roth 
THE FANCY 

BREEDING domestic rabbits is accomplished for two pur- 
poses — that of Fancy and Utility. For Fancy, implies 
breeding to requirements that have been formulated in 
accord with certain ideals, termed Standard; for Utility, 
means rearing them for market meat, and whatever commer- 
cial use can be made out of the fur and skin. I will refer to 
each separately. 

Careful search has failed to identify the term fancy with 
that of rearing animals, nor that of fancier, unless a "cant name 
for sporting characters" can be so construed. The definition of 
the word Fancy is "to imagine"; to "form in one's mind an ideal" 
of a thing "which appeals to one's liking." Another definition is 
"the faculty by which the mind forms images or representations 
of things at pleasure;" and still another "taste, conception." 
Last and perhaps as near correct as any, makes it imply to like, 
to be pleased with, particularly on account of external appear- 
ances. 

These definitions, it seems to me, are singularly applicable 
to the pact of folk who make it their object to rear animate crea- 
tures so they conform with certain pre-conceived ideals whose 
chief points are beauty, grace, usefulness, and harmonious blend- 
ing of physical characteristics into a being as near perfect as the 
imagination can conceive. This, to my mind, is a technical 
Fancy, and it is not difficult to appreciate how interesting, at- 
tractive and profitable it can be made. 

A Fancy, too, does not stop at mere admiration, or liking, 
as I fear many follow it. One can own and admire a creature, 
and yet not be a fancier; for a Fancy, as the above definition em- 
bodies, means development, advancement, and persistent effort 
toward an objective point along definite lines. A life-time of 
useful application can be vouchsafed in it as reflected by the 
beneficial results to mankind from the efforts of pioneers in its 
various branches — the horse, dairy cattle, sheep, swine, the dog 
and cat, many handsome breeds of fowls, and just as beautiful 
and useful for Fancy and food, the Belgian Hare, the Flemish 

9 



(liant, the New Zealand Red, and other valuable but perhaps less 
well known varieties of the commercial rabbit, as well as the 
smaller and more strictly "fancy" varieties. In all these depart- 
ments the Fancy has assumed such merit that the Department 
of Agriculture recognized the necessity for assisting by the 
organization of experiment stations for advanced study of the 
different features embodied in it. 

The commercial rabbit and fancy rabbit has lately received 
recognition from a Government departmental source, and sev- 
eral bulletins prepared relating to the rabbit industry. Once the 
commercial value of the rabbit is intelligently appreciated, re- 
cognition as a national industry must follow. Progress in this 
direction lies with the Fancy, and it is this body that must make 
the Utility subservient to it, with the fact before mind that no 
creature can be too beautiful and physically perfect for food 
purposes. 

A Fancier 

To be a fancier, is to interest one's self in the principles em- 
bodied under the term Fancy and as a breeder, aim at their con- 
summation so far as possible. A fancier must needs be a breed- 
er, but a breeder is not always a fancier. To be a true fancier 
does not merely imply the liking of a certain classified animate 
being known as breed, strain, or type of animal or fowl, but as 
already intimated, the knowledge of an ideal toward which the 
liking inclines to an extent that scientific effort is exercised in its 
growth for perfect attainment. This implies, too, a reasonable 
information on structural tissue; of the laws of pro-generation 
with regard to merits and defects that are influenced by her- 
edity; and of physical characteristics that classify the variety 
in question. 

To apply one's self as a fancier can be made an object of 
the highest merit in that the exercise of personal qualifications 
which stand for honor, honesty and business integrity can be 
placed on a par with all other occupations that call for man's 
noblest principles. 

The Need for a Fancy 

With regard to rearing rabbits as a matter of Fancy, its 
beauty and wisdom as a chosen hobby, cannot be questioned. In 
several foreign countries, notably England, the breeding of pet 
stock has become as much an industry of importance as that of 
breeding thoroughbred stock of larger animals for domestic use. 
For its production they enter into it with as much care as that 
required for a first class specimen race horse, dairy cow, canine 
or fowl. The science to successfully produce any one of the 

10 



many varieties of commercial or fancy rabbits to their present 
perfection is as intricate and interesting in detail as for the 
above and has advocates by way of membership of men and 
women who stand in the forefront of educational, social and 
professional station. 

Fancy rabbits are particularly attractive in many ways. 
They are docile, useful, and exceptionally beautiful; while as a 
feature for relaxation from more weighty responsibilities no 
finer field is open for genuine pleasure. 

They are singularly appreciative of intelligent attention, 
and since their growth is rather quick, one's pleasure in seeing 
the fruits of one's efforts is sooner realized than in many creat- 
ures of other fancies. 

By way of unalloyed sportsmanship no Fancy brings more 
real satisfaction than that derived from the numerous shows for 
friendly competition, where often the specimens are bred so 
keenly to the edge of uniform quality as to almost make a judge 
look three ways at once. And it pays for when choice winners of 
any of the varieties, fetch as high as anywhere from $25 to $125, 
and win a trophy worth $50 besides, one need not wonder why 
such a Fancy attracts good people to membership. 

I know fanciers who annually have an income from $200 to 
$1,000 from the sale of specimens for breeding only; and in this 
country prices are not one-half that secured for winning speci- 
mens in England. That this is so, is entirely the fault of the 
Fancy here, and on the whole our stock is just as good as theirs 
— in many respects better in the matter of health and stamina. 

The reader will pardon this personal introduction, but I have 
often been asked by frequent visitors to my rabbitry "What 
prices do you obtain for the general run of breeding specimens?" 
"From $5 to $25 per specimen I have heretofore considered reas- 
onable" is my reply. To show an approximate average, I will 
state that for 27 there was remitted $222. 

That a Fancy can be made a nicely profitable feature is fur- 
ther qualified when I say, that the actual cost to rear a Belgian 
Hare or any variety of similar size and habits to maturity need 
not exceed 80 cents for a year's feeding when all foodstuffs have 
to be bought. Under many conditions the expense can be re- 
duced to half this, so when one can secure stock of superior merit 
for such a limited outlay, and realize from $5 to $50 per speci- 
men, such a Fancy commands more than passing notice. 

A well informed fancier and author has this to say: "As a 
Fancy the Belgian Hare and fancy rabbit has few rivals which 
can claim such concentrated advantages, for, apart from the fact 

11 



that each section of society is represented in its rank as exhibi- 
tors, the world-wide popularity of rabbits as an article of food 
and commerce grows by leaps and bounds annually." I look 
forward with the consciousness, that what has become in a num- 
ber of densely populated foreign countries a Fancy and Industry 
of inestimable value to them in various ways, will not be long 
distant here. 

The Rabbit cs a Species 

The rabbit is indigenous to virtually every part of Europe 
and America. Australia has also a species of rabbit somewhat 
akin in type and habits to the American "Jack." 

The rabbit is a species of quadruped separate from that of 
the hare, nor will the two species "mix," as many suppose, un- 
less in very exceptional instances. It appears, also that to what- 
ever country the rabbit is indigenous, it has characteristics that 
differentiate from its brother of the same species in another; 
either larger or smaller, or of varied color markings. The same 
holds true of the hare in its native heath. 

The rabbit is of the species lepus cuniculus, and the hare 
lepus timidus, though both belong to the family rodrntiae — a 
creature with long, rat-like front gnawing teeth. Originally the 
rabbit was introduced into Europe from Africa, is the prevailing 
opinion among zoologists, and most likely what is now Spain; 
from thence into Brittany, and eventually over all Europe. How 
long since, or rather, in which of the earlier centuries this trans- 
pired is not definitely known. 

In its gregarius habits the rabbit also differs widely from 
those of the hare, and in the wild state is said to be monoga- 
mous. This latter trait, however, ceases with domestication, and 
either sex becomes altogether polygamous. It also differs from 
the hare in that its young are born immature, with eyes closed 
and the body nude of hair, in a nest lined with fur pulled from 
the mother, burrowed in the ground whenever possible; while 
those of the former (hare) are born with eyes open, and body 
nicely covered, in a "form" on top of the ground. 

The fertility of the rabbit is also proverbial, a litter contain- 
ing anywhere from 4 to 12, while the female haro rarely brings 
forth more than 2 and seldom as many as 4. 

An old English name for the rabbit is cony, and its cogno- 
men in many others is similar to this, as Latin cuniculus, Italian 
coniglio, German kaninchen, and Welsh owningen; but the rabbit 
is not the cony of Scripture. 

Each country, and in America, each state has laws which at 
this time regulate the destruction to which it may be subjected 
as game; but this point is not essential here. 

12 



For domestic purposes the rabbit has been bred to many 
varieties, and virtually so from early times. As a dainty morsel 
it has graced the table of ancient monarch and his humblest 
peasant down the ages until now, so that as an article of food 
and commerce it is recognized the world over. 

The actual consumption of rabbit as a food is not totally 
known from available statistics right now, but England alone 
uses upwards of 25,000,000 pounds annually and in France, Ger- 
^many, and Austria, as well as Belgium and Holland, it is, as 
• already remarked, largely the food of their peasant class. What 
is known as the "Famous Ostend Rabbit" is merely a specially 
reared Belgian for culinary purposes, and occupies much the 
same position with epicures that the Canvass Back duck does in 
this country. 

England- has received her supply hitherto almost entirely 
from the colonies, notably Australia, where it was so abundant 
as to make wholesale destruction an absolute necessity because 
of menace to crops and fruit trees. I am informed quite recently 
however, that the Australian species is in some danger of ex- 
termination, for it is not alone for food that its use extended; 
in fact, at first it was not used for this purpose at all, but for fur 
jvery extensively utilized by hat manufacturers. Because of this, 
indiscriminate slaughter was executed so that now I am told by 
one of the largest hat makers in the world that fur from this 
source has fallen off in supply nearly 40 per cent, and price con- 
sequently advanced in the same ratio. This same hat maker was 
greatly concerned, and advanced the suggestion that it would 
become an absolute necessity to rear fur rabbits in large num- 
bers for both hat and leather uses, as well as the more inexpen- 
sive furs for wear. In fact, large quantities of skins are already 
utilized for the latter purpose, which would seem to suggest a 
field for unusual profit when managed with a view to producing a 
specially grown article of superior "wool" merit and wearing 
qualities. I am convinced that this can be done. 




English Lop with Good Earage 

13 



Varities of Domestic Rabbits 

Descriptions and Standards by Roth, Cornman and DeardorfT 

Many varieties of rabbits have been "made" by domestifT^ 
breeding, and here follow the more prominently recognized by 
fanciers: Flemish Giant, Belgian Hare, New Zealand, American 
Spotted, Lop, Dutch, Angora, Himalayan, Polish, English, the 
Silver in Grey, Fawn, Blue and Brown; the Tan in Black, and 
Blue; the Havana, Imperial, and Selfs. 

The English Lop Ear 

The Lop 

As a fancy variety, the Lop has made itself decidedly pop- 
ular, and while perhaps not so much so in this country as if? 
England and Germany, it has, withal, many admirers. Its piin- 
cipal characteristics is the large ears for which it is noted and 
specimens of enormous proportions have been produced in recent 
years. Instances are recorded with an earage of 27^ by IV* 
and a weight of 12 pounds. Because of this immense earage, 
however, its breeding for purposes other than Fancy is not so 
desirable as that of less bothersome varieties. 

Ears 

For show purposes the Lop has two classifications — one for 
entries of classified length, and the other for any length. For 
the former, classification usually exceeds 24 inches, to any pos- 
sible limit beyond this; while in the latter no specification i^ 
made, and these specimens are judged perhaps more for univer- 
sal quality than earage alone. 

Measurement of the ears is taken from one extremity across 
the head to the other, and the width of one ear must be at least 
one-quarter of the total; that is, if the earage is 24 inches, the 
width of one ear must be six inches. 

There is also a charactei-istic pendancy to the ears when in 
natural sitting pose that must be looked for in well bred lops, 
which is due to a correct juncture of their roots with the cran- 
ium. This is an important point, and means that an ideal speci- 

14 



men has the contour of head over its highest portion where it 
joins the first (cervical) bone of the neck so adjusted as to com- 
pel the ears to suspend uniform, and gracefully curved around 
their convex distension, without collapsing appreciably in any 
place except where touching the floor. 

Pose and Shape 

When the head is posed as just described, it gives position 
to the animal throughout, a point that qualifies for Standard 
merit. This will naturally approximate the fore legs beside each 
other from elbow to toes, so they are evenly paired under the 
rounded breast, and not much more than foot-length visible; 
neck rather sharply curved so as to start the back-curve from 
shoulder junction in a uniform, almost half circle, free from pro- 
jections, to the root of the tail — -"in the buck rather straighter in 
saddle outline." 

The hind legs are uniformly straight by the side of the body 
toes not pointing away nor toward it, and flat on the floor from 
knee-joint forward, altogether "humping" the body between two 
strongly outlined shanks so as to make it appear almost balanced 
in the middle of them. 

Color 

Unlike the Belgian and several other varieties. Lops are 
bred to no specific color, unless solid blacks can be so identified. 
They are represented in sooty, fawn, white, grey, yellow, or. 
modified bufi", blue and self; or in broken colors of yellow-and- 
white, grey-and-white, blue-and-white, or black-and-white. 

In the distribution of these colors, there should be some 
appreciable regularity in that they are not to smear into one an- 
other, while "the saddle should be entirely self, the markings 
breaking at the shoulders." 

Butterfly 

The head "has a star or blaze on the forehead; but its chiefly 
marked feature is the butterfly, a marking- which, while it leaves 
the nose with no trace of white, is broken on the outline, resemb- 
ling this beautiful insect." 

This singular resemblance is physically due to the charac- 
teristic anatomy of a Lop head — the rounded, lateral-and-for- 
ward convex nose; conspicuous eye brows, and rather broad ap- 
pearing forehead formed by the root of the ears. 

All these points enter into classic breeding of this variety. 

Eyes 
There is nothing special about the eye of a Lop other than 
it should be sound and attentive. But I will add, there belongs 

17 



yet something that makes it decidiedly characteristic of this 
variety of fancy rabbit. The inordinate size of those pendant 
ears demand an anatomical adjustment of muscle and cartilage 
about the cranium that creates more or less corrugation around 
the eyes, which causes a singular droll expression quite typical 
of the Lop. It is an appearance of earnest effort to keep the 
eyes open in spite of those large ears. 

Tail 

Must be perfectly straight and "carried well up the body, 
without any suspicion of a twist." To carry the tail side-wise 
does not imply a twist in it, nor is it necessarily a disqualification 
when the specimen is otherwise meritorious. 

Breeding 

As remarked, the object of breeding Lops is virtually alone 
for their earage, and there has been considerable contention 
among fanciers just where success comes from — correct strain, 
or correct attention. Arguments of intense warmth with no small 
acrimony have been freely exchanged on this point, but I am 
reasonably certain that if the strain is not endowed with inher- 
ent propensity to procreate well developed ears, there is small 
chance for meritorious success. 

The matter of artificial heat will, without doubt, also accent- 
uate growth of ear; and when natural weather temperature is 
below 70 degrees within the quarters, becomes a necessity, not- 
withstanding all arguments to the contrary. 

One prominent English authority insists that it is impossible 
to produce earage beyond 24 inches without artificial heat, but 
we must bear in mind that there is a marked difference in clim- 
ate between our country and that of England, and that warm 
days are not so many there as with us. That artificial heat is 
extensively used by European fanciers is a fact, but whether it 
is a judicious procedure for the welfare of the breed is a question. 

For the mere purpose of Fancy and general admiration, one 
can derive virtually as much pleasure from the "anylength" 
class — .say, 20 to 25 inch earage — as for extra length. The latter 
is largely a fad. 

With regard to mating, care, feed and general attention, the 
breeding of Lops does not differ essentially from that of other 
varieties, other than added care for the ears, which persistently 
hang on the floor. For this particular it is necessary that the 
quarters be kept clean continually, and the floor well covered 
with clean bedding of sawdust and chaff, straw, or hay. A dirty 

18 



floor will soon bring on disease of the ears, and once this takes 
hold in a flock there is no end of trouble. 

Littering 

For obvious reasons, it is not desirable that nest boxes are 
given the expectant mother doe. If the general habits of a 
Lop are considered, along w^ith the preponderant ears, it will be 
plain that the more room a doe has, the better able will she be to 
care for the young. All she requires, therefore, is sufficient ma- 
terial with which to build a comfortable nest in one corner of 
her coop, along with the wool she will take from her body to 
line it. 

After kindling, see that no dead ones are among the litter 
and for reasons of success, reduce the latter to no more than 
four. I would suggest a foster mother rather than destroying 
them, particularly so when one has a reliable strain for ear- 
age; for it often happens that those from which the least is 
expected turn out best in the end. 

It is simply astonishing with what rapidity the ears of a 
young Lop will push for length. An old fancier who has bred 
this interesting variety for many years informed me that if the 
quality of a specimen is not apparent by length of ear in 10 
weeks from birth, there is small purpose in bothering further 
with it. He tells me that he has often measured the ears of a 
youngster on an evening, and by the following morning there 
was an additional two inches irt length. One would scarcely 
believe this possible but I have not the least reason for doubting 
this fancier's word. This qualification implies, that an earage 
upwards of 20 and 22 inches must show at the end of 10 weeks, 
and that further length is very limited. 

I have often seen it in print that many practice "pulling the 
ears" to accentuate length, and on the other hand the accusation 
was also denied. Whether true or not, this practice should be 
condemned — with punishment, if necessary. 

Standard for Lops 

There are now two standards by which this variety is judged 
— for the Limit Classes, and Any Length Classes. The former 
has special significance for earage while the latter considers 
the specimens as a whole. 



19 



Limit Classes: — Points 

Ear length 15 

Ear width 15 

Substante and shape of ears 5 

Shape and carriaKo 10 

Color and markings 15 

Condition 10 

Straight feet and tail 10 

Eye 10 

Size 10 

100 
Any Length: — 

Ear length 25 

Ear width 19 

Substance and shape of cars 9 

Straight feet and tail 10 

Color and Condition 21 

Shape and size 10 

Eyes r> 

100 
Bucks to weigh 10 pounds and does 11 pounds or over. 



French Lop 

The French Lop is similar to the English, as described above, 
but is smaller in body and with smaller ears. They are judged 
"by the same Standard as the "Any Length" class in the English 
variety. 

Disqualifications — Permanent wry tail or feet. 



Dutch 

By many this is claimed as the handsomest variety of all 
domestic rabbits, and with considerable justification. 

The Dutch is not as popular in this country as in England 
and Germany, though it is making friends fast. 

There is about this variety a certain fascination that ought 
appeal in particular to fanciers with a critical eye, for its color 
markings are such as to make a scientific breeding an absolute 
necessity. 

20 



It has been said that Dutch are "hard to raise," but why 
more so than other varieties has not been made clear, to my 
satisfaction at least. Were such the case, it is likely the trouble 
lies with the breeder rather than in the breed. 

The Dutch is not a large rabbit compared with domestic 
rabbits in general. Standard qualifications want it compara- 
tively small; so if there is any lack of stamina in the breed, it is 
possibly owing to a persistent effort at keeping down weight, 
accentuated also, by close in-breeding. 

Color 

Color markings of this variety are characteristic and very 
pronounced, one color being always white, and the other either 
black, blue, tortoise-shell, or a type of steel grey. The solid 
colors must be typical of the parts they cover, and distinctly 
separated from the white. Neither shall smear into the other 
and both must be entirely free from foreign hairs. Fancy value 
of a specimen depends altogether on the perfect markings thus 
characterized. 

White must be the markings of shoulders, fore legs and feet, 
under jaw and nose upward to between the ears, forming a dis- 
tinct blaze. About 1% inches of the hind legs from toes upward 
is also white. Solid color covers the saddle from short ribs 
back all but the hind feet, and its junction with the white must 
be as clean cut a line of demarkation "like a string about the 
waist." Both sides of the face, jowls and ears, are of the same 
solid color, just as evenly separated from the white. 

Breeding 

The biggest contention associated with breeding this vari- 
ety lies in persistently keeping down size, and maintaining solid- 
ity for the two color markings. 

To breed high quality Dutch there is but one road to real 
success — that of establishing a reliable strain. 

Start right, and the battle is near half won in the knowledge 
of personal results that relate to points of merit or demerit. 

The greatest contention is to overcome a propensity for 
foreign hairs and splotches in solid markings, notably on the 
sides and flanks; specks in the eyes, or distinct discoloration; 
and white inside the ears. 

When mating it is advisable to use breeding stock that has 
maintained solid markings after its second molt. Intelligent 
attention to this factor has been a leading guide to the establish- 
ment of permanency in markings; and largely, also, for physical 
characteristics in general. 

21 




AN IDEAL DUTCH — Very nearly perfectly marked. 

Compare this fellow with the ideal cut helow 

Lines up in jfood shape, doesn't he? 



CHtCK MARKINGS 
NOSTRILS 



UNDER CUT \ TOOT STOP 

EDGtOFJAW COLIAR HIND FOOT 

IDEAL DUTCH MARKED RABBIT 



OC or SAOOU 




The breeders whose success I have noticed as most pro- 
nounced, mated either a second molt buck to younger does, or a 
two-year old to yearling females. Greatest stress was laid on 
color characteristics in the male, while the females were selected 
more for inferior size; thus, as near as possible, equalizing points 
for both color and weight. 

Physically, the Dutch of whatever markings, is a beautiful 
rabbit when rightly bred. It should be neither racy nor cobby, 
but a graceful medium to which there is sufficient length that 
does away with pudginess. Never to grow above 5V2 pounds, 
size and grace should be harmoniously proportioned to make an 
ideal. The ears are perhaps a trifle on the small size compara- 
tive to specimen. 

As to markings, these are so well outlined in the young 
when born, that one need not waste effort in bringing up what 
will likely turn out worthless ones. I am alluding to the line of 
demarkation separating the colors. If this line is ragged or 
irregular, colors will show the same when fur is grown out. 

Feeding 

'Standard weight for show purposes is five pounds, and not 
over five and one-half, hence one must keep in mind continually 
that overfeeding conduces to overweight. In fact, they do not 
seem to require as much as a few other varieties of the same 
size to keep in good condition; and so far as the nature of food 
required, there is no essential difference with that of other 
breeds — with the exception, perhaps, that not quite as free a 
supply of greens be allowed. This latter conduces to a disease 
known as scours. 

Quarters 

Every one will readily understand, that a small variety of 
rabbit does not require so much room as a large variety. The 
quarters should be comfortable, clean for the sake of color as 
well as health, and sufficiently high to allow free jumping 
exercise. 

To keep down weight by exercise is far more desirous than 
doing so by stinting food. Exercise and air make for vigor and 
"blooming" fur. 



23 



standard of L'uints 

IJlazc and Cheeks 15 

Clean neck 10 

Saddle 10 

Undercut 10 

Feet-stops 15 

Ears 10 

Eyes 5 

Color 10 

Size, Shape and Condition 15 

100 
Negative Points 

Small specks on eyes to lose 10 

Discolored, or wall eyes to lose 20 

Distinct spots, or flesh marks 20 

Over 5V^ pounds in weight 20 



70 



Angora 

In this country, the Angora has been heretofore an exclu- 
sively ornamental variety. It makes one of the most attractive 
pets one may wish, and in the show pen one of the finest exhibits. 

In several European countries, notably France, this variety 
is reared quite extensively for its fur as a source of income by 
the peasant folk — furriers buying all that is rendered. 

As a matter of information I will mention here, that one 
rabbit is estimated to furnish "wool" at a value of 5 to 7 francs 
per year, or approximately 20 francs for three years, after which 
it is considered worthless by reason of the "wool" becoming too 
coarse, and is then consigned to the peasant's food supply. One 
specimen is "pulled" twice each season, much after the method 
our forefathers employed to secure down from geese. 

To us hurrying and much-wanting Americans this source of 
income would scarcely appeal right now; but permit me to prog- 
nosticate, that time is not far distant when breeding rabbits for 
fur purposes will become an actual necessity — unless the wearer 
of fur and felt hats gradually affiliates himself with some sort 
of inferior substitute. Of this I have been assured by one of 
the largest manufacturers of felt hats in this country, and he 
qualifies his assumption by saying that "it will be but a few 
years from now for us to sec rabbit farms in every community." 

21 




A Splendid Angora. Note the wonderful ear furnishings 




BLACK AND WHITE ANGORA 

Colored Angoras come in Blues, Blacks, Grays and Fawns and combinations 

of these various colors with white. They are not so 

popular at present as the Whites. 



This would seem to bring the Angora forward as a desirable 
rabbit along these lines — essentially so for cross purposes with 
other varieties to attain the most advantageous fur. 

Among a batch of mongrel rabbits I shipped some time 
since to a New York commission house, was a specimen appar- 
ently the result of mating a near Angora with a part Belgian. 
The singularly beautiful fur attracted my attention and by look- 
ing it over carefully, was impressed with the possibility of what 
the hat industry opened to one who would give scientific attention 
toward the attainment of a species of fur rabbit for this purpose 
— possibly from cross-mating thoroughbred Belgians, Angoras, 
and Silver Greys. 

For Fancy 

As remarked for purposes of Fancy the Angora is very 
attractive, and makes an ideal pet. It is perhaps the most docile 
of all varieties, tolerating whatever handling is required to keep 
it so with entire freedom. 

Because of its long and delicate fur, it must of necessity be 
brought up in positively clean quarters. Constant disinfection 
must be applied to keep them so, and it must be remembered at 
the same time that all animals and creatures with long "wool" 
are ready carriers of disease germs. 

In its most perfectly developed form the Angora resembles 
a puffy ball of snow, with the head almost hidden within its 
fleece. The longer and finer in texture its wool, the higher its 
value as a Fancy specimen. Wiry type of fur is not desired nor 
correct, while a tendency for it to mat appears an evidence of 
high quality. 

It is bred, of course, mostly in white, though recently some 
effort is being made to bring out what are expected to be blacks 
and blues. These latter have created quite some controversy 
among their fanciers antagonistic to several judges who passed 
on them with considerable question — rather in the light of sports 
"in smoky color" than a bred up variety of true shade. The fur 
of blacks and blues has been found, also, to modify with each suc- 
cessive molt to an extent that one is scarcely distinguishable 
from the other. 

Breeding 

Out of the 100 points called by Standard requirements, 55 
are demanded for quantity, quality and length of wool. This 
should indicate to the intelligent fancier along what lines speci- 
mens ought to be selected to reproduce these qualities; and since 
the procreative functions are always more pronounced in the 
male, it becomes essential that this side of the line is well bal- 

27 



anced. In no instance of breeding live stock am I in favor of 
feminine characteristics to preponderate in the male, but when 
mating Angoras for the particular qualifications above mention- 
ed I am positive that femininity on the fructifying side will pro- 
duce best results. A coarse male rarely fails to reproduce coarse 
effects in both body and fur of his offspring. True, have the 
female as fine and pure of fur as available, but rather let size 
and front furnishing be the preponderating characteristics. 

Tufts on the ears are also an essential show quality, and 
should preponderate in the male. 

Groominji 

Many an otherwise qualified specimen has failed to win, 
simply because it was carelessly groomed, or not at all; and to 
groom properly is a matter of no small attention. 

The exceeding fineness in texture of fur indicates that the 
skin is compactly covered with almost microscopic hair follicles, 
and to be in any way rough to these with coarse brush, comb, or 
confections, possibly, means a coat that will eventuate into 
coarseness. P'irst essential, then, is to keep the skin clean and 
healthy from the day youngsters begin to show Angora wool 
type. For some months this is not a bothersome attention, pro- 
viding the quarters are kept clean and well bedded with shav- 
ings or fine hay. An abundance of the latter will do wonders by 
merely sifting through the fur, but to accustom the ball of wool 
to handling, and nurture the tender skin so its covering remains 
soft and fluffy, occasional brushing with a freely flexible wire 
brush, followed by a medium bristled hair brush, is desirable. At 
any rate, do not permit the coat to mat. But should this happen, 
and the specimen is desired for exhibition purposes, a genuine 
shampoo becomes necessary. Whatever one fails to do, under no 
circumstances fail in preventing vermin getting into the coat of 
an Angora; for here is trouble that becomes very real once 
it has a start. 

To prepare a specimen for exhibition, one's object must be 
to have the skin and fur virgin white and clean, which is best 
accomplished by means of a shampoo and dry brush. 

Select a warm place, say 75 to 80 degrees, and water of at 
least 98 to 104. Apply the shampoo with the wool scruffed 
"wrong way," use gentle rubbing, and then wash off with clean 
warm water, followed by a rub down from a soft Turkish towel. 
Before the fur is altogether dry, dash through it a bit of good 
Bay Rum, then finish. When brushed well, muss up the fluff and 
sprinkle through it borated talcum powder, which is in turn thor- 
oughly gotten out by liberal brushing "in every direction" until 

28 



the wool is woozly soft as the driven snow. There is no danger 
of the specimen taking cold if these directions are observed. 
Just be sure the fur and skin is entirely dry, and when Bay 
Rum and talcum is applied its pores are effectually protected. 

I have often been asked what to do for the removal of brass- 
iness and stains, and "what to apply to make a pelt pure white?" 
If brassiness is not inherent with the strain, and stains have not 
remained too long, a shampoo is usually sufficient. But remem- 
ber, there is a vast difference in brassiness acquired from envir- 
onment and that of heredity, and in a properly cared Angora 
ought not to show. 

Standard of Points 

Quality of wool 30 

Length and quantity 25 

Front furnishing 10 

Ears— tufted 10 

Size and Shape 15 

Condition ". 10 

100 

Himalayan 

In Europe this variety of rabbit is reared in considerable 
quantity for its fur, and many fashionable women carry pelts 
with the belief that they are wearing beautiful ermine. 

The Himalayan is one of the handsomest species of domestic 
rabbit that can be desired, and beside being an ideal pet, brings 
real satisfaction to the critical fancier in the breeding of it for 
classic points. It is worthy of a stronger position in the Fancy 
than it now occupies. 

By the way of description it has a beautiful white coat of 
short, fine, flossy fur, soft as down, and looks at one v/ith droll, 
attentive pink eyes. The nose, ears, tail and four feet are deep 
chocolate black, a beautiful contrast to the white dress over all. 
If these back points are deep and dense, and nicely even separ- 
ated from the white, a specimen becomes all the more enhanced 
in value. The young when born are white entirely, but about a 
month old the dark extremities begin to come out gradually, and 
at four months their development is complete. 

A singular peculiarity about this variety is the anomaly of 
their black points growing lighter on exposure in the sun, and 
for this reason their breeding should be conducted in hutches 
with subdued light. Indoor quarters would therefore appear best 
adapted for successful effect, and which, on account of the deli- 
cate fur, must be kept scrupulously clean. 

23 \ 



In size a specimen should weigh about four pounds, and in 
general physical outlines conforms harmoniously with that of 
Dutch. Ears are neat, small comparatively, and black to the 
roots. No dewlap. White fur entirely free from blemishes of 
alien color. 

To make all salient points clear with regard to rearing this 
variety successfully, I will quote verbatim how a reliable breeder 
says in "Fur and Feathers" he goes about it: "Allow the young 
to remain with the doe until they are 8 or 9 weeks old. If you 
take them away before, they will in all probability stop growing, 
and a young Himalayan must keep on growing until it has got 
all its points cleared. 

"With regard to mating, the question of relationship does 
not concern me so much as fitness from the standpoint of increas- 
ing points of excellence, and correcting faults. I never trouble 
about how closely they are related, providing they are perfectly 
sound and robust. Never on any account inbreed from stock 
tainted with any kind of disease, or regret is sure to follow. For 
my part I like stock closely inbred, because it keeps your opera- 
tions more closely confined. (Of this theory associated with 
breeding the English fancier is virtually obsessed. I will refer to 
it in the chapter on Belgians. — Author.) These are the lines I 
work on, and I feel sure a great many of the most successful 
breeders of live stock have done the same. 

"As to feeding, I never found that Himalayans wanted treat- 
ing any different to other kinds of exhibition rabbits, only per- 
haps, that you should not give them quite as much green food, 
and not change it quite so often or so suddenly, as they are very 
subject to looseness. In very hot weather let them by all means 
have a drink of cooling water; but don't leave it in the hutches 
that they knock it over, for this soils them, and spoils the color 
of the feet. 

"And now I must get to feeding. Some Himalayan fanciers 
swear by hard feed and some by soft, but I don't stick to either. 
I just give them a nice change as often as I think good for them 
and if I find a rabbit does not care for the food I am giving, I 
take it away and give something it does like. Oats and wheat 
are the staple food for breeding stock and growing youngsters, 
but when preparing them for exhibition I like soft food, because 
I can mix together various kinds of food of an oily nature, and 
this keeps them on the move, and the molt. As soon as I have 
got their points clean, however, I give them hard feed, and three 
times a week some bean and pea meal, just to tighten them up 
and get them in fine condition. 

30 



O (Tl It 

C S» 



2,»e 



O 3^ 1 



2 s- 



3-3 



5^ 
« S. 

o ^ 




"I have referred to food of an oily nature, but this in no 
way gives them color, which must be bred for, though it gives 
their dense points a lustre which is so fascinating, and which a 
judge likes. Some of the oily foods I used were linseed and 
molassine meal, whilst I have also used with great success a 
mixture of cod-liver oil and lime water — the lime water taking 
away the fishy taste from the oil. This is a fine conditioner and 
flesh-forming food for any kind of rabbits that are inclined to be 
poor and in low condition. 

"And just a few lines with reference to stained eye-lids. I 
am very much afraid we shall have this defect for a considerable 
number of years; in fact, I very much question if it will ever be 
gotten rid of, unless Himalayan fanciers import quite a fresh 
lot from their native land." 

Regarding the above points on care and feeding for Him- 
alayans I quote the writer entire, for the reason that he conveys 
with but slight modification the process pursued by virtually the 
whole English Fancy. It gives the reader a clear idea how fancy 
rabbits are reared over there, and to what fastidious lengths 
they will go to make a specimen showy. After results do not 
seem to be considered, and in the light of such effort, with its 
noncommittant environment as to climate and limited quarters, 
one need not wonder that stock coming from there is without 
stamina, and too frequently diseased. Once we are obliged to 
rear stock for show effect only, there will be small interest for 
the scientific breeder. I allude to the efforts of forcing Nature 
to yield beauty at the expense of inherent physical qualities. 

It is a physiological fact, that rabbits with pink eyes are 
not so tolerant of light as those with dark. As an act of com- 
fort therefore, if for no other reason, they should be kept in dim 
light quarters; and particularly should the young be protected 
until at least six weeks old. 

Standard for the Himalayans 
Density, Shape and Size of Markings: — 

Hind feet 25 

Fore feet 15 

Ears 15 

Tail 5 

Nose 15 

Quality of fur 10 

Shape 5 

Size 5 

Condition 5 

100 



Silver Grey 



Here is a distinctly useful variety of domestic rabbit, and in 
referring to its physical characteristics, I wish at the same time 
to express a hope that shall actuate a better appreciation for the 
real merit to which it is entitled. 

On superficial observation the Silver will scarcely be esti- 
mated as handsome, but on close examination of a correctly bred 
specimen there will be discovered a delicacy of fur that is more 
like silk than wool, and when that beautiful "pepper and salt" 
silvering is seen shimmering through it, there can not fail of 
real enthusiasm for the production of a good type animal. 

The Silver is neither large nor small, ranging from five to 
seven pounds. It has not the racy, reachy style of the Belgian, 
nor the compactness, "get-togethei*" appearance of the Flemish. 
Fine of bone, clean and dainty, delicately valuable fur, and as 
near an ideal meat as the most fastidious epicure can demand. 
Indeed, it is almost too fine a meat, so that cross-mating, say 
with the Belgian largely enhances its food value. 

I have given consideiable attention to finding the origin of 
this variety, and while it is essentially an English product, the 
several fanciers who have rendered an opinion were so diversi- 
fied that I am loath to say anything authoritative. 

One may inquire why this variety is named "silver Grey" 
rather than merely "Grey," as one is readily impressed on first 
seeing a correct specimen. There is a certain shimmer to the 
fur that clearly conveys the tinge of silver, due to a proportion- 
ate number of tipped hairs evenly distributed, known as ticking. 
The shade may vary from light to dark silvering according to the 
greater or lesser quantity of light hairs. In fact, from the stand- 
point of Fancy, the value of a Silver is estimated entirely by the 
evenness of its silvering, which ought to be as near alike over all 
the animal as possible — ears, nose, feet and tail should match 
body color. 

Undercolor is by some termed slate blue, and by others blue 
black. This should extend distinct to the skin. What is often an 
otherwise good specimen Silver Grey is frequently made inferior 
by entire lack of undercolor on the chest — a point to be con- 
stantly kept in mind when one's matings are made up, or new 
stock purchased. 

Likewise, specimens that are otherwise evenly silvered but 
have a "cloudy appearance" usually possess a strain from the 
Browns. 




SILVER GREY 
A beautiful variety, not given the attention in this country it deserves. Excepting 
the defect of slight kinks in the ears (caused by hutch conditions) the above is a 
very good specimen. 



THt (lOit fon 

0«T«n. OF T. 

OuTicnriv 



ROINC BONt OCfm>rioN 




flu 8^ FcATHea '■'-jL -■^^*] itc >. sucutot 

Chain M«RMiNiob. POOV 







tOlN MAPKINCS 



IDEAL ENGLISH RABBIT 



(NOTE: — Eliminate the "chain markings" and substitute two or more large patches 
for the body and loin markings in the above, and you have the ideal markings for the 
American Spotted Giant, the shape and size of which, however, corresponds to the 
Flemish Giant — see page 53.) 




•c- 



E-S 



c ■ 
l| 



Breeding 

There is but one essential to the successful breeding of Sil- 
vers — stock of even markings on both sides. This implies that 
males and females are as near like one another as one can 
possibly have them. If anything, undercolor is perhaps of more 
vital consideration than surface color, which, as remarked, must 
have the evidence of even silvering. The coat should be short, 
and of such feel and consistence like silk. 

It is claimed by breeders of this variety, that richness of 
silvering is intensified by warmth. This, of course, comes from 
the English method of rearing the variety, and where climate 
and consequent environment must be considered, also the pro- 
priety of winter breeding, always injudicious unless accompanied 
by artificial heat. The latter is a factor only when one breeds for 
show classes as scheduled according to age limits at all times of 
the year. At the age of six months the finished lustre of a 
Silver is supposed to be complete. 

Standard of Points 

Undercolor, a deep rich blue black 25 

Evenness of silvering throughout 20 

Sharp, even bright ticking 15 

Short, full coat 10 

Ears, neat, well set on; bold, bright eyes 10 

Size — about six pounds 5 

Condition and shape 15 

100 



Silver Fawn, Silver Brown, and Silver Blue 

are varieties not recognized to any appreciable extent in this 
country. At shows one sees occasional specimens purporting to 
represent them, but their breeding is of such uncertain success, 
as to warrant scarcely any real interest in their support. For 
utility purposes, they are just as appropriate as the Grey. Stand- 
ards — except color — same as Silvers. 



37 



Engl is n 

This hs a "made" rabbit by English fanriors, and among 
them has many staunch admirers. It cannot lay claim to super- 
ior merit over any other variety beyond the singular markings 
that characterize it, and correctly bred, these are quite beautiful 
and odd. 

The breeding of English rabbits is always surrounded with 
considerable uncertainty, and in no variety is the necessity for 
reliability of strain emphasized as perhaps in this. Lately, also, 
some slight modifications in their Standard markings have been 
made that do not by any means simplify breeding. 

Persistent inbreeding is the more likely road to success to- 
ward characteristic points, and as our English friends invariably 
do, they follow it with a vengeance. 

The peculiar markings which typically identify this variety 
are known as "herring bone" and "chain" — the former from 
shoulder along the entire back, and the latter along sides, ending 
on both shanks. Ears are solid black and the eyes are also sur- 
rounded by a solid circle. "Butterfly" nose is considered by 
many as important a point as that relating to ears and feet. 

Standard Points for the English Rabbit 
Head Markings: — 

Perfect butterfly smut 15 

Circle around each eye 8 

Eye spot, clear from eye circle 6 

Eye, clear and bold 3 

Ears, neat and free from white, not 

over four inches long 5 

Body Markings: — 

Neat saddle, herring-boned in any dis- 
tinct color 10 

Sides of body to be nicely broken up 
in small patches, not to catch saddle 

markings 12 

Chain markings, even as possible on 

each side 12 

Leg Markings: — 

One distinct spot on each leg . .Fore leg 6 

Hind leg 2 

Belly spots, should be six G ■ 

Color 5 

Size and shape, 6 to 8 pounds 5 

Condition, good coat, not baggy 5 

100 
88 



Polish 

This is the "White Rabbit of Easter," and when bred to 
Standard qualifications, is an exceptionally handsome variety. 

It is pure white over all, has pink eyes, and in physical out- 
lines closely resembles the Himalayan (without the dark points). 
In shape it is neat, and not by and means pudgy, and has little in 
common with the white rabbits one sees running about yards, 
kept in filthy small boxes by children, and reared mostly for 
Easter occasion. Very few of these are Polish. With its solid 
whiteness that gives continuity to outline, there is apparent all 
the while something striking in the spry and bold appearance to 
the animal, and quite typically accentuated in the inquisitive pink 
eye. When on the alert there is a characteristic grace that 
removes all compactness out of the body, with the result of real 
beauty in outlines. 

Its fur is of fine quality, short, close to the body, smooth 
and of silky texture. Ears are short, well set on, thin, and finely 
covered with fur, the latter point being good evidence of thor- 
ough breeding. 

Because of their immaculate whiteness — and, by the way, 
there must be no evidence of brassiness in the coat — Polish must 
be bred in clean hutches, so constructed as to prevent direct sun- 
light into them. 

There are no rules of special importance for mating other 
than the male and female should be well matched as to quality of 
fur, ear finishing and perfect health. Any evidence of brassiness 
must also be avoided, a caution quite essential when new speci- 
mens are purchased. 

Standard Points for Polish 

Shape 15 

Size — three to four pounds 10 

Quality of fur 25 

Purity of color 15 

Ears 15 

Eyes 15 

Condition 5 

100 



39 



Havanas 

This is one of the very latest varieties and was first intro- 
duced as an exhibition specimen into England, in 1910. The cor- 
rect color is dark brown to dark chestnut brown and blood red 
brown changing with the varying light. From Holland, Havanas 
have been sold to go to France, Switzerland, Germany, and quite 
a few have found their way into the United States. In France 
they appear to have been crossed with the Belgian Hares, the 
color of these specimens being light tan brown, and the frame 
and ears are consequently much larger than in the original 
variety. The pelts are of considerable commercial value as an 
imitation beaver. Furriers require a rough, longish coat, and 
the Dutch variety appears to be the one most bred for this pur- 
pose. Havanas are strong and hardy and easily reared in outside 
hutches of ordinary dimensions. The show type that appears to 
be superior is the smaller, neat, short coated variety. The larger 
ones often exhibit a dewlap and are somewhat coarse and awk- 
ward looking. The eye is deep brown, changing to ruby and 
quite a feature of the variety whose most pronounced fault after 
the variation in color, appears to be a preponderance of white 
hairs in body and ears. The general appearance of the Havana is 
somewhat similar to the Imperial, with a decided blue cast to be 
seen on the belly and thighs. There are wonderful possibilities in 
the Havana and we look forward to them becoming great favor- 
ites in the United States. 

Standard of Points for Havana Rabbit 

Color — A rich, bright brown all over, with undercoat of 
pale grey 35 

Shape and Size — Exceedingly fine and elegant, somewhat like 
the Black-and-Tan. Head and neck medium. Weight, 
when full grown, not to exceed bVz pounds 20 

Ears— (Four inches long, fine in substance, small, straight 
and carried upright 10 

Feet — Very slender and straight, with brown toe nails .... 10 

Eyes — liarge, the color of the fur, showing a red light in the 
pupil, yet having a soft and gentle expression 5 

Coat — Short, fine and silky 15 

Condition 5 

100 



40 



Black and Tan 

This beautiful and interesting variety has but few admirers 
in this country. It is essentially an English product, and is sup- 
posed to have its origin in the cross of a domestic with the wild 
rabbit (not hare) of England. 

In shape, and to an extent in markings, it has considerable 
identity with the Dutch. The points are, of course, Black and 
Tan, each color distinct for the parts to which they are attributed 
and must be free from alien splotches. Tan must be of a deep 
and dense color distributed as follows: — front, sides, feet and 
hind legs, jowls and face. Ears are small and the eyes are very 
bold, after the instinct of wild rabbits. 

Standard Points of Black and Tan 

Tan, deep and rich 15 

Black, dense 10 

/ Triangle 5 

Distri- \Hind feet 10 

, J Fore feet 5 

bution < ^^^^^ ^^^ p^^^j^ ^^^ ggjjy ^^ 

of Tan / Nose, Eyes and Jowls 5 

V Ears, in and outside margins 5 40 

Shape, that of Dutch 5 

Size — about four pounds 5 

Ears, short and black 10 

Eyes 5 

Condition 10 

100 

Blue and Tan is identical with the above, blue taking the 
place of Black. 

Weight of both varieties, 4% to 5 pounds. 



41 



Imperial 



The ideal Imperial may be described as follows: Shape and 
size, similar to that of a Belgian buck, but shorter in limb and 
weighing, when full grown, from 6 pounds to 7 pounds. Color, 
dark blue, of one even shade throughout. P'ur, soft and bright, 
and rather longer than in the short haired varieties. Head, nar- 
row and tapering, eyes being long, bright, and deep blue in 
color. The ears should be about 4^2 inches long, round at the 
tips, carried erect, and set rather closely together. The com- 
monest faults are white hairs intermixed with the blue, rusty 
color, brown eyes and bars of a lighter or darker color on feet. 

Standard of Points for Imperial Rabbit 

Shape and Size 25 

Ears 15 

Eyes 5 

Head, narrow and tapering 10 

Color 25 

Coat 10 

Legs and Feet 5 

Condition 5 

100 



Selfs 

It was not my intention to touch on Selfs and yet the book 
would scarcely be complete without some reference to the" en- 
deavors being put forth at present to popularize Self-Blacks and 
Blues. The production of such varieties presents little difficulty 
in the matter of color, and all that is required to be done is to 
reduce size and shape to the Standard governing the Polish or 
White Self rabbit. 

Breeders of these new varieties which give every proof of 
rapidly becoming popular are obtaining them by different meth- 
ods. Blacks are being bred by mating dark Silver Greys and the 
common wild rabbit, caught when young and tamed, and from 
Polish and Silver Greys. Both Self-Blacks and Blues are com- 
mon enough in litters of tan and English and this presents an 
easy method of obtaining stock. Self-English are, however, 
much too strong in type, and therefore not the best means of 
securing the desired end. The first method of producing Blacks 
is the best and for Blues the Self-Blues often bred in a litter of 
tans is equally useful. 

42 



No Standard of points has been drawn up, as yet. The only 
guide to breeders is the Standard for Polish. Neatness, short- 
ness of ears and coat, combined with purity of color, are the 
points to aim for, and the rabbits when produced are to be of the 
"bantam" variety. There is no doubt about the success of the 
newest of new varieties, providing the Polish type is adhered to, 
and it is safe to predict a successful future for Selfs. 

American Blue 

(Formerly Called The Vienna Blue) 

This variety is an introduction from Germany, where it has 
been extensively bred for meat and fur. The color is a beautiful 
dark steel blue throughout, with eyes to match. As compared 
with the Flemish, it is more upright and shapely, and weighs 
about ten pounds. Dewlap small. 

Standard of Points 

Color 25 

Shape 20 

Weight 10 

Ears 5 

Eyes 5 

Head 5 

Legs and Feet 20 

Condition 10 

100 

Japanese 

The Japanese rabbit is rather an oddity and is very rare 
in this country. The color scheme is intended to represent the 
rising sun, and consists of irregular circles or bands and patches 
of different colors, running around the body to represent the 
sun's rays, and the undercolor, varying from cream to brick red, 
representing the sun. While the markings may be very irreg- 
ular, they must be clear and distinct and not of a mottled appear- 
ance. In shape they are short and thick-set and weigh about 
eight pounds. 

Standard of Points 

Markings 30 

Undercolor 20 

Shape 20 

Ears and Head 10 

Fur 10 

Condition 10 

100 
43 



The Flemish Giant 

As the name implies, this is the largest of all varieties of 
rabbits. By reason of its size the meat for food purposes is not 
as fine grained as that of its more classic rivals, the Silver and 
Belgian; but on the whole is quite desirable from the fact that it 
does not require many months to reach the same equivalent in 
weight which others attain only at maturity. Its meat is there- 
fore all the more tender and appetizing. 

The origin of the Flemish is somewhat obscure, but late in 
the '60's or early in the '70's, there was developed in Holland and 
Belgium a cross-bred rabbit that was given the name "Leporine." 
Later this was introduced into England, and here is what one 
author says about it: "Since Leporines so-called were introduced 
into this country they have been bred continuously, but with dis- 
tinct and different objects — in the one for size, and in the other 
ostensibly to develop a rabbit of the form, color, and fur of the 
wild hare. The larger race has been called Patagonian, but is 
now recognized in a different type as the Flemish Giant." 

It is of course, then, a "made" rabbit, which accounts, no 
doubt, for the difficulty encountered by fanciers to breed reliable 
markings. 

By reason of its immense size, the Flemish can without pre- 
judice be named King of fancy rabbits. Specimens have been 
produced that were said to weigh 20 pounds, while the average 
weight of Standard bred stock should be at least from 14 to 16 
for females, and 12 to 15 for males. 

Whether this can be attained by American methods under 
the environment and climatic conditions peculiar to this country, 
remains to be seen. 

If one can not, or does not care, to breed this variety for 
Fancy, it is of excellent utility use. The mother being large, 
naturally has more nourishment for her young than a smaller 
variety; so that by a bit of attention to feeding, her offspring 
can be made to weigh near 4 pounds at six weeks, and at 3 
months will reacji 6 pounds. One fancier informed me that he 
has grown them ^ 8 pounds, and some 9 at three and one-half 
months old. In 4h^ event, the Flemish should prove decidedly 
profitable as a iKp^et proposition. 

44 



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Mating 

In all my remarks with reference to the different varieties, I 
shall speak of them in the light of being thoroughbred stock. I 
am not in favor of mongrelism for any purpose, and all the less 
so in any living thing that is utilized for either food or Fancy 
use. The methods suggested are therefore done so with a view 
to qualify for Standard requirements, and the breeder can so 
apply them whether rearing stock for show or market purpose. 

When getting ready to mate, look over the stock with care 
and see that all intended specimens are sound and of good coat. 
Consider size and evenness of color with particular criticism. 

For utility, no particular rule for mating is essential other, 
perhaps, than size and health, and it has been experienced that 
nice, dark bucks mated to "smoky" does will produce the largest 
stock as to frame and weight. For show purposes, however, 
matters are considerably different. 

Each specimen must be made an individual study with a 
view to fight against every fault that should not appear in an 
exhibition entry. One must pair up for length of frame and 
massiveness, and to this end select specimens as near Standard 
in points of merit as one has been. Any defect in one of a pair 
always appears liable to show itself with more emphasis than a 
desirable point so that it is all the more important to select 
breeders of perfect body, good ears well set on, nice large eyes, 
straight and strong limbs, perfect set tail, massive and firm 
body as near of the steel grey color as possible. Mate dark 
steel greys, if one has them; but if there is ruddiness in one of 
the mates, it must not be on the male side. A black or intensely 
dark steel buck mated to a ruddy doe, usually gives good results; 
for in breeding Flemish it appears necessary to frequently fall 
back on black to maintain the essential dark tinge for true steel 
color effect. 

A black buck mated to a light steel grey, doe will reproduce 
dark steel greys, and a dark steel grey buck mated to a black 
doe will result in a shade that seldom fails to attract a knowing 
judge. 

Littering 

The period of gestation is 31 days, and if it varies more 
than a day longer, or two at most, there is something wrong. 
The doe will begin building her nest, and pull fur to line it with, 
any time from 10 days to an hour or so before due to kindle, so 
that it is necessary for her to have material for the purpose 
such as short hay or straw scattered about the hutch. 

Have the nest box so situated, if possible, that one can look 
into it without moving out of place, and sufficiently roomy for 

47 



the doe to have free movements within so as to obviate danger 
of trampling thi- young. And I will say here, that Flemish re- 
quire larger quarters in general than any other variety, because 
of their size. Plenty of room means better success with them. 

A few days before the doe is due to kindle have before her 
continually a dish of clean, fresh yater. Many does become 
feverish at this time, and will not infrequently destroy their 
young if the desire for water cannot be satisfied beforehand. 
This would be unfortunate, and occasionally it genders the desire 
for blood to the extent of making cannibals out of them with 
every subsequent litter. 

After the doe has kindled look over the nest and see if any 
dead are among them. If so, remove these with as little dis- 
tui'bance as possible, at the same time diverting the mother doe's 
attention away from the nest with some tempting greens or 
other delicacy. 

The matter of permitting a doe to bring up an entire brood 
is for the breeder to decide, but best results will eventuate by 
leaving no more than six at most. Above this number calls for 
extra attention with food and care. 

I know not a few who have succeeded in bringing up litters 
of 9, 10 and 11, one instance of which turned out every one a 
prize winner. But as a matter of Fancy, few fanciers permit a 
doe to rear more than four, fostering the remainder with a doe 
bred at the same time, or destroying the smaller ones out of a 
batch. 

With Flemish, or other of the giant varieties, it is desirable 
to attain as rapid and as much growth from the first day on as 
one can, and the more youg there are in a nest, the more each will 
hinder the other's development. It is only a matter of several 
days, also, until there is a tyrant in the lot who preempts more 
than his individual share. 

Flemish in the nest can from the first day be quite well 
selected for quality as to prospective standard points, like 
this — steel greys are known by their pink bellies and dark backs, 
while the blacks are virtually one shade on back and belly alike. 
What will turn out as light greys will have decided pink bellies, 
the tinge of which spreads well up the sides. 

During the time a doe is suckling her young, an excellent 
dish to help growth is a sop of bread and sweet milk in con- 
nection with the evening mess. This is also an ideal "condi- 
tioner" for the young after leaving the nest up to six weeks old. 

With regard to feeding generally, each fancier seems to have 
a method he personally thinks best. Some do quite well, while 

48 



others have less success; but I am safe in saying that more rab- 
bits are lost from injudicious and too frequent overfeeding, than 
from insufficient and less frequent. 

All varieties are fed along similar lines. But just bear in 
mind continually that the giant varieties require approximately 
more food. 

Standard for Steel Grey Flemish Giants Size and Weight 

Bucks 12 pounds or more. Does 14 pounds or more. 

Points 

Size considered, irrespective of weight 30 

Color — Dark steel grey, even or wavy ticking over entire 

body; head, ears, chest and feet alike. Belly, and under 

part of tail as near white as possible 20 

Body — Large, roomy and flat, with broad fore and hind 

quarters. Does to have dewlap, evenly carried 15 

Legs and Feet — Strong in bone, large and straight, color of 

them to match that of body 15 

Head and Ears — Head large, full and shapely, with large bold 

eye of dark brown color. Ears moderately thick, carried 

neatly erect. Head and ears to match body color 10 

Condition — full, short coat, flesh firm, healthy 10 

100 
Cuts and Disqualifications 

Any grey, steel, sandy, or other shade on the belly or under 
tail, except a streak of grey in each groin, sandy, brown, or red 
color mixed through the body fur should be penalized according 
to quality of competing specimens. Inferior size, crooked legs, 
barred feet, screw tails, lopped ears, camel backs, and small 
narrow heads, or heads entirely too "bull-shaped," are disquali- 
fications. 

I will also add, that there is no small tendency for Flemish 
to throw a ruddy brown color shade; and while stock of this tinge 
usually has the making of large specimens that will do well for 
utility use, as show exhibits they are absolutely worthless in the 
eyes of an expert judge. 

To breed true and harmonious steel grey, is no easy matter, 
and the correct Standard shade; or rather, permanent color is 
rarely apparent in its perfect tone until completing the second 
molt. 

NOTE — The Standard calls for belly "as near white as pos- 
sible" thereby following along lines laid down by English fan- 
ciers, who demand "pure white." However, it is impossible to 

4? 



get a white belly, or even nearly white, without more or less 
sandy color cropping out on neck and legs, hence the American 
breeder, in order to get the beautiful even body color, generally 
favors the German Standard which demands an even color 
throughout. The best American judges favor an even dark steel 
grey body color, harmoniously blending into a somewhat lighter 
shade on the belly. 



Grey Flemish Giants 

The Grey Flemish Giant is a strain of the Flemish bred 
more particularly for great size that is not attainable in the 
Steel Grey variety. The Steel Grey has been bred with certain 
color requirements in view, and to this end size has been sacri- 
ficed to some extent by infusing blood of some of the smaller 
varieties, such as the Silver Greys, Himalayans, etc. In the 
Greys, considerable latitude in color is permitted by the Stand- 
ard, any shade of grey not conflicting with the Steel Greys, 
(steel grey is a disqualification in this variety), either light grey, 
sandy or reddish grey, but should be as nearly uniform as pos- 
sible. Size to be as great as possible, not less than 13 pounds 
for the bucks and 15 for does — five points cut for each pound 
underweight. Bodies to be long and massive, broad quarters, 
strong and powerful legs and feet. Does to have dewlap evenly 
carried. Standard points as follows: 

Size and Weight 30 

Color 20 

Head 5 

Ears 5 

Body and Quarters 20 

Legs and Feet 5 

Condition 15 

100 



50 



Solid Colored Giants 

The color should be solid throughout, free from any foreign 
color. Weight and size same as the Steel Grey Flemish. The 
White Giants should have pink eyes; others, eyes to match body 
color. Does to have dewlap evenly carried. Standard of points 
as follows: 

Size ;75' ;..'.....". 30 - 

Color 20 

Body ...15 

Legs and Feet 5 

Head, Eyes and Ears 10 

Condition 20 

100 

American Spotted Giants 

(Formerly Called the German Checkered Giant) 

This beautiful rabbit was introduced into this country a few 
years ago from Germany. Its great utility value, being equal 
to any of the Giant varieties in that respect, and its beautiful 
markings, are rapidly making for it a place in the front ranks 
of both fancy and utility breeding. In size and weight it ranks 
with the Steel Grey Flemish, but possibly somewhat lighter 
boned. The color of the perfect specimen is identical with that 
of the English rabbit, except that it does not have the "chain 
markings" and the patches on the sides of body should be large 
and but few in number as compared to the English. There 
should, however, be not less than two of these patches. The 
"butterfly," eye circles, cheek spots, teat marks, ear and saddle 
markings, all similar to corresponding English markings, may 
be of any solid color, but must be unuorm. The body color is 
pure white. Disqualifications, any two colors in the markings, 
absence of important markings, side patches and saddle mark- 
ings in solid patch. Does to have dewlap evenly carried as in 
all other Giant varieties. 

Standard of Points 

Head 5 

Ears 10 

Body 20 

Legs 10 

Size and Weight 20 

Color 25 

Condition 10 

100 
51 




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Q, a 

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The Belgian Giants 

The Belgian Giant is the result of crossing the Belgian Hare 
and the Flemish Giant for a meat type. In color characteristics 
it should measure up closely to that of its more aristocratic 
brother, the Belgian Hare, but in shape and size should be large 
and imposing, with legs rather heavy boned, similar to other 
varieties of the Giant varieties. Does to have dewlap evenly 
carried. 

The Standard 

Size 25 

Body 20 

Color 15 

Head, Ears and Eyes 15 

Legs and Feet 15 

Condition 10 

100 



New Zealand Reds 



The New Zealand Red is one of the latest additions to the 
list of "American made" rabbits and has become one of the most 
popular. It made its first appearance about 1906, and was claim- 
ed by its promoters to be an introduction and importation from 
New Zealand. Investigation has shown that no such rabbit is 
indigenous to New Zealand, but that a rabbit of somewhat simi- 
lar appearance to the first so-called New Zealand Reds that ap- 
peared in this country, now inhabit the southern part of New 
Zealand, having been originally imported to that country from 
Scotland, and was there known as the Scotch rabbit. Be that 
as it may, the animal, as it now exists, is, without question, an 
American made product, bearing but little resemblance to its 
reputed ancestors. 

Because the animal is so evidently a product of the ingenu- 
ity and skill of American fanciers, rather than that of some al- 
leged importation of foreign stock of doubtful character, and, 
believing American breeders should be honored by conferring 
upon it a good old American name, instead of a foreign one, an 
attempt was made in 1916 to change the name to American Reds. 
This move was, however, defeated because of the tremendous 
popularity the variety had already attained under its original 
name. The rapidly growing popularity of this variety caused 
much spirited discussion, and some misunderstandings and bit- 

53 



teriiess, but at last all factions got together and are now united 
in presenting their claims for a variety that is certainly second 
to none in the rapidity with which it has improved in color and 
type, as well as gained in popularity. 

Like the American classes in poultrydom, the New Zealand 
may be styled as the "happy medium" between the light-weights 
and the heavy-weights. While not so large as the Giant varie- 
ties, it matures more quickly, reaches a "frying size" on less feed 
than the Giants, and is more meaty than its smaller, though per- 
haps more aristocratic cousin, the Belgian Hare. 

There seems to be a tendency among some breeders to breed 
for extremely heavy weight — to make Giants of them. This is 
a serious mistake, and I am inclined to think that judges should 
penalize overweight just as severely as underweight. The New 
Zealand is in a class by itself, and to my mind, it would be folly 
and ruinous to the variety to try to compete with the Giants in 
size. The New Zealand occupies much the same position on the 
commercial rabbit plants as the White Leghorn does on the com- 
mercial egg farms — that is, at the head of the list. Don't de- 
stroy that position by destroying its individual characteristics. 

In length of body and breadth of quarters, the New Zealand 
should be, as the Standai'd has it, "medium," and with legs 
"medium heavy boned." A good specimen will give the idea of 
strength and meatiness, but more agile and without the clumsy 
massiveness of the Giants. 

In color, they should be a "reddish buff, carried well down 
to the skin and evenly over the sides and hindquarters, free 
from black hairs, not dark or smudgy, or light buff. Belly, red- 
dish cream." Legs and feet same as body, free from white. Ears 
same as body and without black lacing. Eyes hazel in color. 
Does to have dewlap evenly carried. 

Standard weights: Bucks, 9 pounds; does, 10 pounds. 
Standard of Points 

Head 5 

Ears 10 

Eyes 5 

Color 30 

Shape 10 

Weight 20 

Legs and Feet 15 

Condition 5 

100 
54 




ANOTHER PRIZE-WINNING NEW ZEALAND 




A (JOOD BELGIAN HARE DOE— Full of life and viKor. Note 
the alert "racy" appearance typical of this variety. 



The Belgian Hare 

By Dr. W. F. Roth 

Introductory 

As alluded in a former chapter what I shall remark concern- 
ing methods of rearing, and the "keeping" of Belgians in general, 
can be applied to all varieties heretofore mentioned. 

There is no essential difference in housing, cleanliness, feed- 
ing, and practical attention other than the salient points speci- 
fied with each variety. The general principles for mating, breed- 
ing, the matter of pedigree records, and bringing up along intel- 
ligent lines, apply virtually alike in all. 

Of all the varieties of domestic rabbits, the Belgian Hare has 
maintained highest popularity. This is due largely to its many 
excellent qualities in all respects, and correctly bred, offers to 
both fancier and utility breeder the widest scope for satisfaction 
and usefulness. And bred, also, in harmony with Standard char- 
acteristics, there is about it a grace and beauty in both shape 
and color that is not found in any other variety. 

Origin 

There is no positive information available as to correct 
origin of the Belgian Hare. Its name would have one naturally 
infer that it originated in Belgium, but I am not aware that it 
was by Belgian breeders ever designated by the subjoined term 
Hare, unless in later years. 

An English writer says: "The Belgian Hare is so called from 
its resemblance to our English hare, and from its Belgian origin. 
It has, however, no blood relationship or affinity to lepus timidus 
(common hare), but is to all intents and purposes, a rabbit." 
Technically, then, the Belgian is named Hare by courtesy, and is 
a rabbit in fact, the English wild hare being the pattern that has 
stood for fanciers of that country as an ideal toward which they 
have directed their breeding since its introduction from Belgium. 
With all this idealism, however, the Belgian will never be an ex- 
act likeness of its prototype, for without the admixture of blood 
from the latter there can be no more than a similarity. 

Belgian breeders claim, that what is now the upbred Belgian 
Hare was originated by them from a cross of the wild hare in- 
digenous to that country, and their common rabbit. This asser- 

57 



tion, though, has never been proven within my knowledge, and I 
doubt if it is true. If they have succeeded in mixing the blood 
of two distinct species of animals, it was going without the 
bounds of zoological probabilities, and what many have subse- 
quently attempted only with failure. There are, indeed, some 
features about our present Belgian that lend possibility to the 
claim, but when one appreciates the continual contention against 
development of the persistent rabbitry dewlap, there is less room 
for belief. 

Naturalists describe the wild hare of Belgium, by a "fur of 
dark reddish color, with white belly and weighs from six to 
nine pounds." 

In its original type the Belgian Hare, so named, was intro- 
duced into England sometime about 1856 to 1860. It came with 
the name Leporine. No immediate progress was made by Eng- 
lish fanciers, and it was not until some fifteen years later that 
attention was directed toward a specific type. In the last twenty 
years, however, much advancement was accomplished, largely 
accentuated by the interest aroused throughout this country. 

To better appreciate the idealism toward which Belgian fan- 
ciers breed with the wild hare as prototype, it will not be in- 
apropos to remark a bit of natural history concerning it here: — 

Virtually every country has a wild hare that is indigenous to 
it, and in no two countries are the species identical. That is, 
there is no difference in specie habits, but it is either larger or 
smaller, with such modification of color markings as its environ- 
ment seems to demand. 

America has several species, the most common of which is 
the "Northern Varying Hare," so named on account of accom- 
modating its color markings, as it were, to the locality it in- 
habits, in the northern countries changing entirely to white dur- 
ing the winter months. In summer it is brown, varied with black 
tipped hairs, the prevailing color in the more southern countries. 

Then we have the "Prairie Hare" (lepus campestris,) dis- 
covered by Lewis, and is never found east of Kansas. This spec- 
ies is most abundant about Salt Lake and in Utah generally. 
The fur is white in winter with here and there brownish spots, 
while in summer it is a yellowish grey. 

The "Wood Hare" (lepus sylvaticus) is a small variety, and 
frequently confounded with the common rabbit. It ranges from 
Hudson's Bay to Florida, and in physical characteristics has 
much in common with the wild rabbit of England. 

"Trowbridge's Hare" (lepus trowbridgii) is the smallest of 
all American species, and is found only on the Pacific coast. 

58 



The species which is indigenous to England and Scotland, is 
perhaps the most beautiful and characteristic of all, the world 
over; and as previously mentioned, it is this that has been made 
the prototype for attainment with the domestic variety. 

In natural history, the hare is described in the following 
language: "The common hare is known from the rabbit by the 
redder hue of its fur, the great proportionate length of its black- 
tipped ears, which are nearly an inch longer than the head; by its 
very long hind legs, and its large prominent eyes. When full 
grown it weighs on the average about 8 or 9 pounds, and some- 
times even 12 or 13. In total length it rather exceeds two feet, 
the tail being about three inches long. The color is greyish- 
brown on the upper portions of the body, mixed with a dash of 
yellow; the abdomen is white, and the neck and breast yellowish- 
white. The tail is black on the upper surface and white under- 
neath." This quotation is rather broad, and no doubt meant to 
be general for the hare species, while that native to England 
(the prototype of the Belgian Hare) is somewhat more pro- 
nounced, the animal being rather longer and consequently more 
racy. The English wild hare is typically "built" with long, thin 
fore legs, rather full chest nicely tapered into an upward trend of 
the belly that ends in a racy tuck-up at the flank, and the latter 
fortified by a pair of strong-shanked thighs of powerful propel- 
ing muscular action in the well-formed reachy hind legs. Color 
that of the fox in full "bloom," a rich tinge of old gold, and the 
back from shoulder to tail tipped with beautiful ticking, "like a 
wavy field of grass in summer." Ears erect, and "foxy" in at- 
tention and color, with pronounced black points. Head rather 
broad across the skull, short, strong, and a bit thick, with a "pop 
eye" that stands out bold and alert, quick and nervous as if 
taking in all surroundings at once. 

The wild hare will invariably bring forth its young in a 
nest (called a form) built on top of the ground, while the rabbit 
will "make a hole" (called a burrow) in the ground, line it with 
fur pulled from the mother's body, and have a litter of 4 to a 
dozen. The mother hare will rarely have more than four and 
more frequently but two or three. 

Another differing feature of the hare from the rabbit it is 
claimed, is that the former brings forth its young with the body 
covered with fine hair, and the eyes open, while the latter are 
born immature, uncovered by fur, and the eyes closed for ten 
days. I can not verify this assertion concerning the hare lever- 
ets out of personal observation; but from the fact that the hare 
and rabbit is both of the genus rodentiae, which are all night 



59 



foragers and born with eyes closed, I am at a loss to reconcila 
this particular characteristic. 

Distinctly, all Belgian Hares of consequence bred in this 
country are of foreign origin, and with but few exceptions, direct 
descendants of stock imported from England. What specimens 
came to America from Belgium and Germany are as different 
from the English type as a Percheron is from the Kentucky race- 
horse, and there is little about these that appeals to the classic 
fancier. One sees occasional advertisements of "Grey," "White," 
and "Black" Belgians. There are none such, and the name is 
more a whimsical misnomer for an uncertain cross-bred rabbit or 
the result of self-colored sports. 

Physical Characteristics 

When the expert horseman wishes to purchase a speedy 
driving animal, he first inquires where, and from what stock it is 
bred. It must, first of all, have an ancestry of recognized and 
demonstrated quality. This implies health, speed, and durability. 
Then he looks the horse over from every point of view — front, 
sides, behind, close and afar. He does this with the animal in 
pose and when in action, and notes every contour of head, body, 
and limbs. He wants a driving "machine" that has all its phys- 
ical parts harmoniously and scientifically adjusted for easy 
action that makes time with the least effort. Shape of head, 
expression conveyed by set of ears and attention in eyes, car- 
riage of tail, shape of body with taper toward flank, strong shank 
action beneath a well-fonned back — all these characteristics 
make for qualities desired. And so with the thoroughbred Bel- 
gian Hare. 

In speaking of its physical characteristics we have in mind 
all that one sees in outline, contour, shape, size, length of limbs, 
ears, eyes, expression and color markings. It is a picture of type 
that aims for an ideal, and as before mentioned, since this ideal 
is largely made up in the physical characteristics of the wild 
hare, it is necessary in breeding the domestic to constantly keep 
this before us. 

No one man in the Fancy the world over has done more to- 
ward bringing the Belgian Hare to its present physical status 
than Mr. John Noble of England. His high abilities as a scien- 
tific breeder, fine perception of physical points, and all require- 
ments that make for success, are only accentuated by the rare 
qualities of the man as shown by his gentlemanly courtesy to- 
ward every one, that I am willing to concede him all the honor 
so meritoriously but modestly earned. Mr. Noble has "made" 
the Belgian what it is more than any one else, and this is what 
he says about the making: 

60 



"I have made a special effort to develop the shape of the 
Belgian Hare ever since I decided to make this variety my spec- 
ialty, and have succeeded in breeding some of the best ever bred. 
Most fanciers know that we wish to breed to represent the wild 
hare in general style. You will therefore select your specimen 
with fore legs as straight and long as possible and the hind feet 
long and fine also; ears about five inches long, and carried similar 
to the wild hare; head (rather) long. The neck must fall low 
from the ears, with a graceful curve along the back, and a gradu- 
al rise to the hind quarters, which should be well rounded — not 
chopped off abruptly. 

"This specimen of which I have drawn the outlines is to a 
very large extent idealistic. A successful breeder is an idealist. 
You will always have pictured in your mind's eye what you wish 
to see realized. You will not be satisfied with your realization 
for as your practical efforts advance, your ideal keeps advancing. 
Consequently you are always living in a state of hope." 

Another breeder of note, Mr. Wilkins, has the following to 
say of the physical characteristics that to his mind constitute a 
typical Belgian: 

"The body of a Belgian should be long and fine in build; the 
forepart should not be heavy, but fine and graceful; the back 
nicely arched and rounded from shoulder to tail; the haunches 
round, not choppy; fore legs should be long, fine, and well set on; 
that is to say, they should be so placed as to lift the fore part of 
the body well from the ground and let plenty of daylight under 
it. The head of a Belgian should be long and lean, with prom- 
inent eyes full luster. The ears should be well set on the head, 
carried erect when in motion, and laid on the shoulder when in 
repose. They should not be too short, as shortness of ear causes 
a rabbity appearance. The correct length is five inches. The 
neck should be fairly long and slim in proportion to the body. 
The bones of the hind legs should be long and lean, not thick and 
chumpy. Tail should be straight and in no ways curled. The 
whole properties of the make-up of a Belgian should combine to 
present to the eye, as the wild hare does, a look of gracefulness 
and activity. A thick, choppy, angular Belgian is an abomina- 
tion." 

This latter picture is even more idealistic than the one drawn 
by Mr. Noble, and is decidedly more away from the real wild 
hare type, notably its head and neck. However, the possibilities 
of these pictures are exceedingly fascinating, and to attain them, 
a real art. 

It will be noted that in the above descriptions no mention is 
made of color characteristic — a feature that to many fanciers- 

61 



appears of almost greater significance, apparently, than that of 
shape; so that one might be led to think from this silence that 
color markings are of inferior importance. As previously re- 
marked, color should have its share of considerate attention, but 
never made to supersede shape. Nature is fickle with color iden- 
tity, as shown in the ever-changing variableness of the wild hare 
according to season and environment. 

The wild hare is the race-horse of the native rabbit family, 
and the Belgian that of the domestic bred. This point should be 
constantly in the fancier's mind when breeding for quality; so 
that by all science available in the breeding art he keep away 
from bulkiness, bigness, and general rabbity outlines, just as the 
breeder of speed-horses keeps away from the common farm pro- 
duct. 

But this is not to convey the inference that raciness of shape 
means necessarily a small animal. Standard weight is eight 
pounds, and this is not by any means difficult when one gets 
length rather than compactness. Leave the big, compact stock to 
the utility breeder, for this sort should never be specified as 
fancy, but made a distinct class by itself after the German and 
Belgian type. It is the trade in stock of this latter "make" that 
has done breeding for classic Belgians great harm, and it would 
not be injudicious to create two classes with a view of opening a 
channel for show recognition to breeders whose ideas for size 
outweigh those of raciness. This would place the utility rabbit 
on a basis of equal breeding for its particular qualities with that 
of the classic type. Possibly, too, the advisability of distinguish- 
ing names for clear differentiations of the two types would not 
be amiss. I shall add here, that associated with an understand- 
ing of physical characteristics there is frequently a misinterpre- 
tation of type for shape, so will insert what Mr. Ziegler, a lead- 
ing American fancier and judge, entertains as a proper definition 
of the former: — 

"Type is the aggregate of characteristic qualities. A Bel- 
gian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type, and again a 
specimen perfect in color may be a poor type. It takes good 
color and good shape to be a good type. A specimen that scores 
high according to Standard requirements is a good type, and one 
that would score 100 in shape, size, color and quality would be 
perfect type (est inventus). Quite often the word "type" is 
used when only shape is meant. The shape of the Belgian adds 
to the makeup of Belgian type, but by no means will shape alone 
determine its type." 

I will leave the interpretation of this quotation to each 
reader individually, and with it the inference that a show speci- 

62 



men of any species of exhibit judged by the score-card system, is 
subject to the judge's individual interpretations of score-card 
points; and that it is as rare as snow on Fourth of July for two 
judges unknown of each other to aggregate an identical average 
for the same specimen — a fact that demonstrates something "out 
of joint" with either the judge or the Standard, most likely the 
latter. So long as the English and American Standard remain as 
at present, comparison judging will be nearest correct and satis- 
factory. With regard to type, I am personally not inclined that 
color takes a leading part, and has little more to do than a mark 
of identification possibly; nor does it appear to me logical that 
"a Belgian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type." 

Dewlap 

By visitor and novice the question has often been put to me: 
"What is that lump under the chin?" "Why is it there," and by 
the fancier and breeder, "How are we to get rid of it, since the 
Standard qualifies *no dewlap?'" 

The dewlap exists by reason of the' Belgian's rabbit origin, 
and to get rid of it has been an effort of all good breeders from 
the first; and while its riddance is not yet a complete success, I 
am glad to note that we are gradually "getting there" more and 
more. 

Technically, the presence of a limited dewlap does not dis- 
qualify in the show room under a competent judge, but speci- 
mens with pronounced accumulation of a "lump" should be con- 
demned both as breeders and exhibits, since it appears that the 
tendency to reproduce this objectionable point is quite prone; and 
all the more so when the least evidence of it is apparent in males. 
For purposes of Fancy, therefore, no buck should be used as a 
stock-getter that has not a clean, well outlined neck, and whose 
progenitors have been likewise so. 

Anatomically, the dewlap is neither fat nor gland, but rather 
a combination of both, with an added affinity to enlarge in har- 
mony with the functions of reproduction. It is virtually an ex- 
tension of the milk glands in modified form, and is greatly ac- 
centuated by frequent gestation. To out-breed it means atten- 
tion to the selection of proper stock, and to judicious mating with 
regard to frequency and age. What has been accomplished thus 
far is largely the result of junior matings, or matings with one 
side under age maturity, preferably the doe. In other words, 
there must be a doe, at least, a physiological condition of sub- 
normal development in the reproductive sphere, with consequent 
stock of finer physical proportions. 

That objection to the dewlap should exist, at least to a limit- 
ed degree, as a factor entering into classic breeding of Belgians, 

63 



does not necessarily follow; but since we aim to reproduce them 
as near true hare type as possible, its elimination becomes all 
the more necessary, for the more of it we have the less hare 
quality we possess. 

Personally, I have never seen a matron doe without any evi- 
dence of it at all, however slight, and I have seen many as well 
as bred of some of the best specimens yet produced; but if one 
can breed up to a standard of no evidence in junior does, and not 
much in matrons, we can be well satisfied when all other charac- 
teristics come within high quality. Success, if at all attainable, 
lies in a carefully sustained strain. 

Color 

Associated with breeding the Belgian, there has continually 
been more or less diversity of opinion as to what constitutes a 
correct color for it. In fact, fanciers have taken sides over the 
issue, and in many instances came near the point of acrimony 
about it. "The flame is not worth the candle" compared with the 
value of physical characteristics, wherein lies the true hare 
picture. 

Some advocate the deeper tinted shade styled by them "ma- 
hogany red," while others stand by the now popularized tinge 
specified as "golden tan." As will be seen, there is scarcely a 
decided opinion on any shade. 

-Standard requirement calls for "rufous red." Why this in- 
decisive term was made descriptive for color I am unable to say; 
and it is quite certain that the popular color now in vogue is, 
technically, not rufous. That the term is confusing is made ap- 
parent from various expressions vouch-safed by those trying to 
define it with specific wording, as "golden tan," "golden chest- 
nut," "chestnut tan," "mahogany red," "chestnut brown," 
"brownish red," etc. One customer wrote me he desired a doe 
with "dark red" color and another wanted one "cinnamon brown." 

The term rufous is derived from the latin root rubro, mean- 
ing red. Dictionaries define it as "a dull red tinged with brown." 
Tan nowhere enters into any definition of it; though to define the 
latter perhaps aids in understanding its association with the 
former. 

Tan is defined as "yellowish brown," or "to make brown by 
exposure to the rays of the sun." This would seem to imply 
what is to be conveyed by "golden tan." 

Breeding for Color 

Bear in mind from the outset, that to obtain color, even ap- 
proaching correctness, is the most difficult feature associated 
with breeding high class Hares. One can breed a thousand speci- 

64 




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w .. 

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03 

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O V 

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oil 

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mens, many among them of excellent shape and good looks in 
general, yet not one in the lot that comes up to finished color 
points. Breeding for color is the ignis fatus ever present with 
rearing Standard Belgians — "now you have it and now you 
don't" — but there certainly is a large pleasure in "trying to 
catch the thing." 

The first factor toward securing substantial color — and it is 
the substantial kind one wants — lies in the selection of breeding 
stock that is known to throw reliable depth of true tan. With 
this trait thoroughly established in a well built strain, many dis- 
appointments are already conquered. It will cost a bit more to 
start out with breeding stock of reliable reputation, but to 
secure specimens whose blood carry the science of years spent in 
its production, will place one a long ways on the road that has 
been hard traveling for the breeder before, and obviate many 
risks, disappointments, and other troubles that come with infer- 
ior stock. I can fortify this assertion with the assurance that in 
the past eight years not a single specimen marked white on feet 
or shanks has shown itself among my flock, nor a one without 
palpable shade of tan on the belly fur. 

As remarked in a former paragraph, the popular color tinge 
at present most prized by many good fanciers, and toward which 
the Fancy in general has been working since the past ten years, 
is "golden tan," so named. A good specimen is quite handsome, 
and to breed for this tinge considerable of a fascination; but I 
question the lasting qualities on account of its proneness to turn 
lighter with each successive generation. Unless one maintains 
constant infusion of blood from darker tans there will eventually 
be too much white. 

A Fancy, I dare say, has somev/hat the elements of society 
— an institution of changing moods — so that the color for Bel- 
gians today is by conservative fanciers classed more as a fash- 
ion than a point of lasting quality. 

Whatever point one breeds for, keep constantly in mind that 
the power of transmitting it lies strongest in the procreative 
energy of a properly selected male. This is as true of color as of 
all other physical characteristics. The female is more a medi- 
um through which a species is propagated than by it. Now and 
again one comes across what I shall term a masculine female, or 
a feminine male, if such are paired together, the stronger char- 
acteristic points will have their imprint from the former; but 
such matings are undesirable. 

To breed for color, therefore, seek the tinge that is desired 
in a carefully chosen buck. Study and settle in mind just what 
that tinge shall be, then select a male a least bit darker and 

67 



deeper; for it is better to breed with room for "back-breeding," 
than to select too light a tinge from the outset. If one decides 
on "golden tan," mate such a buck with a doe of the "chestnut 
tan" shade, and in both give particular attention to depth of 
undercolor. It is this latter that makes for permanency for the 
future. "If 'chestnut tan' is to be the tinge, have the doe a 
trifle lighter than the buck." 

Once one has carefully built up a hardy, reliable strain from 
vigorous progenitors, the task to bring just what is desired will 
not be so difficult. But permit me to assure my reader that hap- 
hazard matings with haphazard selected stock spells failure in 
all the salient points that make for interest in scientific breeding. 
It matters little whether these points imply color or physical 
characteristics, if one desires to build, the foundation must be 
philosophically right. There can be no true interest or enthusi- 
asm possible out of a makeshift source, and if these principles 
are not included in the makeup of prospective fanciers, they had 
better breed for market from the start. 

Personally, I admire "golden tan" color on a Belgian; but for 
permanent quality and persistent reliability, "chestnut tan" ap- 
peals to me as most desirable, and when seen in a specimen of 
rich bloom, there is something about it that speaks for dignity, 
quality and substance of breeding far surpassing the "flashy red" 
which needs continual nursing. 

Speaking of "golden tan" in his book Ambrose says, "one 
must remember that such is the most difficult color to produce 
and maintain, and that it can not be bred successfully without a 
judicious mixture of the deeper colored ones." Then a few lines 
farther on the same author says of the latter, "some, I know, 
pin their faith yet on the old chocolate shade, but these, when 
compared to a correct golden tan, appear absolutely shabby in 
the eyes of those who admire beauty for beauty's sake alone." 

The inconsistency in these quoted lines lies in the fact that 
"deeper colored ones" are an absolute necessity to the existence 
of "golden tans," and to breed the Belgian as a color object of 
"beauty for beauty's sake, alone," is superseding the physical 
characteristics that make it a distinct species with a fashionable 
fad. Wilkins, in his excellent description of what he considers 
ideal Hare characteristics, does not there associate color as one 
of them, yet in another part of his book says that "color in the 
Belgians is of first importance — it is the cardinal point." He too, 
like Ambrose, is a worshiper at the shrine of fashion. Indeed, 
the craze for "yellow" has become such a fad, that to placate a 
warning for the future welfare of Belgians is necessary. It has 
come to a pass that what is a prize winning specimen in the four 

6:5 



to eight months classes, and lauded as a wonder, will receive 
scant recognition ten months hence. 

When observing a Belgian Hare from a show point view one 
notes the colors to constitute black, white, and red, the latter 
being the prevailing body effect. Absolute white should be con- 
fined to the under surface of the tail alone, while that of the 
belly and under jaw should be tinged with rufous sufficient to 
give an appearance of rich yellow cream, verging into tan if 
possible. Such a specimen is evidence of reliable color breeding. 

Heretofore, there has been no small contention with points 
of white in the form of bars across the front feet, and streaks 
along inside of hind legs, often spreading over the top and down 
outside. There is no longer much trouble in this respect, owing 
to better fortified blood lines in well established strains. The 
fault was largely an outcome from admixture of "any old rabbit" 
by unscrupulous dealers in this country and England during the 
boom some fifteen years since. 

What black is apparent must be distributed from shoulders 
along the back, gradually widening down the sides and along the 
haunches, ending on a line across the root of the tail. This evi- 
dence of black is known by the term 

Ticking 

and consists, according to one authority of "long black hairs 
protruding through and among the golden tan ground color, and 
should be crumpled and wavy, and of a jet black." Others sig- 
nify that ticking is constituted of "red hair tipped with choco- 
late black." In harmony with the present tinge of desired "red," 
the latter is nearest correct. 

At this writing I have likely as near the correct "golden tan" 
as is possible to breed, in one of the most delicate colored bucks 
to be seen. Richness of blood is superb in the light of present 
desired tinge. He is out of a popular imported champion, and 
shows all characteristics of the new "fashion." On seeing him 
hop about the yard, there is scarcely any indication o f ticking. 
He appears "red all over," and fairly blazes with golden shimmer 
at twilight (the correct time to estimate true tinge); but when 
placed in sitting posture and the hand is gently stroked over the 
back, ticking comes out in almost solid wavelets over the surface, 
and down the shanks complete. 

Close examination shows the long hairs delicately tipped 
black — a deep chestnut black rather than jet — not more than 3r32 
of an inch from their points, with the remainder of their length 
same hue as their shorter partners in thick profusion about. 

On the other hand, in an adjoining pen is a grandson of 
John Noble's great African Chief, the perfection of chestnut tan. 

69 



This specimen has not a white hair on his body except under side 
of tail; and while the above "golden" chap is an attraction to be 
admired, and would probably win over his partner, there is some- 
thing substantial about this fellow that stands for unchangeable- 
ness in color of a character which one can not do without for 
keeping the golden ones permanent. In this way he is just as 
rich of bloom as the yellow one, and as a breeder far superior for 
reliability. Ticking is alike in both superficially observed, 
neither showing waviness until stroked by hand. 

Personally, while I admire a heavily ticked specimen (pro- 
viding "red" beneath is right), too much black does not appeal. 
And few such can be found that will breed desirable rufous as 
associate color. 

What is meant by "wavy ticking" is the black-tipped hairs 
so placed in rather regular splotches as to resemble the effect of 
ripples on the water from a breeze. 

There should be no black hairs on the breast and chest, fore 
legs and hind legs. A small evidence on the head is admissible. 

Aside from the above references to distribution of white 
and black, the remainder of the animal should be "red," otherwise 
"golden tan" or "chestnut tan," according to the fancy of the 
breeder. 

As a digression I will insert a bit of relaxation right here: 
While sitting at my desk writing the above anent color, I was 
called out in the yard on a small matter of interest to the child- 
ren. This attended to, my topic came in mind, and I walked 
over to the hutches with the idea of seeing how my pets came up 
to Standard about color points I was trying to tell my readers 
in these lines. The day was more than warm (only 96 in the 
shade), and I found eight brood does on the floors all in like 
position flat on the belly, with fore and hind legs stretched out 
forward and back. They looked distressed of course, but the 
picture was a real pleasure; for here were eight, and seven of 
them as like one another in "color trimmings" as so many peas 
in a pod. Front feet and legs, breast, neck and ears, sides and 
hind feet and legs, so uniform in chestnut tan as to make one 
believe all came from one parent. And those babies with several 
of them ? Well, they were some Belgians in prospective, and I 
was more than ever impressed with the certainty of what I 
had on previous occasions advocated, that to attain best results 
in all particulars, one must mate his Hares in the season when 
Nature intended they should. 

Kindly bear in mind, too, that in using my stock as illus- 
trative to these remarks, I am not doing so with any advertis- 
ing motive. I breed out of pure pleasure and love for the little 

7» 



pets, and for best possible quality entirely as a recreative hobby; 
and to illustrate from it is mere convenience. I have few to sell 
at any time, very limited room to breed Hares, and such poor 
health as to absolutely qualify my efforts. But the pleasure 
derived from their keeping is by all odds the keenest enjoyment 
I got out of any recreation in the past 40 years. But to return: 

Color points as influenced by age are often a perplexing 
feature to those not sufficiently long familiar with the breeding 
of Belgians. They often wonder why youngsters show so light in 
the first eight weeks — a fact apparent in all those bred from 
light tinged stock. This, however, will all change with normal 
conditions of growth, and if the strain is a reliable one as to 
evenness of tan, there need scarcely be any fear of white mark- 
ings. 

Gradually as age advances, color will also, until from six to 
eight months the permanent junior points are complete. In 
England, where shows are held the year round, growth with its 
accompanying color development is often attained at an age of 
four months by a process of forced feeding. 

Permanent senior color, however, invariably follows the molt 
of second summer, and if the tan is of good strain foundation, in- 
tensity, with additional ticking results. To illustrate this point: 
A year since a young fancier friend sent a junior doe, then ten 
months old, to be mated to my imported buck. This doe was ex- 
ceedingly fine in physical characteristics, but quite light "yellow," 
considerably grey on the haunches, with very little but rather 
even ticking. On first seeing her I wondered if my darkest tan 
buck could sufficiently modify the light tan as to produce even 
moderate intensity; but on seeing her pedigree I knew just what 
to do. I knew, also, that with the following molt she would 
greatly improve. This spring (1911) she came back for a second 
mating, and I was surprised at the improved tinge, added tick- 
ing, and almost total disappearance of grey — one of the hand- 
some brood specimens it was ever my pleasure to see. The mat- 
ing proved beautifully successful, and I am proud to own one of 
her sons as a permanent fixture to my rabbitry. 

As already stated, procreative energy is strongest in the 
male. In the sire are supposed to lie hidden the qualities we wish 
to see brought out as physical characteristics in his offspring. 
These, in the Belgian, include color as well as contour of body 
points, so that whatever permanency to them is to be established 
must be sought for preferably in the sire line. At the same time 
I would not have you lose sight of what possibilities can obtain 
through the female as a medium for transmitting specie charac- 
teristics; for since Belgians are essentially a "made" creature, 

71 



both lines become important. The female, however, should be 
studied from her sire side rather than that of her dam. 

Many fanciers mate by selecting the male for color and the 
female for shape and size; others reverse this selection. It is an 
issue that each fancier can apply as a matter of experiment 
toward an objective point; but unless both sexes are chosen with 
due regard for all characteristics, a much larger degree of 
obvious disappointments will have to be constantly combated, 
with the risk of failure in the end. 

Ked, designated as rufous, is therefore what constitutes color 
for all those parts on the Belgian not specified by white and black 
— the latter entirely as ticking. This as already described, varies 
from bright to dark, and is qualified by its tinge as golden and 
chestnut, with tan as the basic element. The deeper down into 
the fur this latter extends, the more valuable the specimen in 
point of Fancy, and if extending to the skin altogether is evi- 
dence of extra quality. 

There is continually some trouble to secure correct color on 
the ears of a Belgian; that is, so these appendages harmonize on 
their superior surface with that of the ground color on the body. 
Often, also, the ears are too bare of fine hairs, almost naked, 
indeed, and then either too light or too brownish. They should 
be very finely covered with exceeding short, red hairs, a nice 
continuation out of the head covering as far up toward the black- 
tipped point as possible. 

Another failing that seems to be the result of fashion breed- 
ing, is whitish-tipped toes — not bars — ^but a soft cushion of pale 
hairs where the nails set in. This is not a very evident failing, 
but by oversight in mating is liable to become objectionably pro- 
nounced. Now and then one sees a specimen, usually a bright 
red chap, with white hairs mingled throughout its body coat. 
Concerning this they make a loud noise over in the Old Country, 
and Ambrose says it is a "very serious defect which should at all 
costs be avoided." They are willing to admit the "defect" as a 
result of in-breeding, yet advocate the latter with a tenacity 
bordering on the pugnacious. Best of all, use no specimens 
whose coats are distinctly marred by alien hairs of white; but at 
the same time do not throw aside otherwise good ones when such 
hairs are "far and between," for we must remember that alien 
white hairs are quite frequently the effect of injury to hair foll- 
icles from a scratch with the claw, a bump, or bite during a scrap. 

Furthermore, our friends "across the pond" are decidedly 
finicky about the effect of sunlight as a bleacher to the red. That 
persistent exposure to sun rays will tan is well understood, but 
that Belgians ought to be reared devoid of this invigorating in- 

72 



fluence on this account, is begging an issue; and that moderate 
exposure will be a detriment is also open to question. As an ex- 
periment I placed one of the bright red chaps in an open, un 
covered yard, with no protection other than several boxes against 
rain. The sun shines in this yard up to 2 P. M., yet this fellow 
shows no bleaching after a four month's test, with the temper- 
ature above 94 for a week at a time. However, as a matter of 
comfort I have my hutches roofed over for protection against 
both heat and rain, since wet is a whole lot more undesirable 
than heat or cold. 

A serious mistake often made that eventually proves detri- 
mental to color effect, is mating specimens before sufficiently 
matured, or before adult bloom is fully attained so as one may 
know what to expect. It is a physiological certainty, that while 
the reproductive sphere can be responsive to its functions at a 
comparatively early age, its fruit thus early produced can not 
attain that permanency in physiological characteristics which 
come from stamina out of a mature body. To come within all 
physical expectations, then, it is well to permit the reproductive 
organs as much time for organic functional perfection as the 
rest of the body; and remember, that once the reproductive 
sphere is drawn on for functional duty, virtually all life of the 
being concentrates in that direction, and at the expense of every 
fiber in it. 

Breeding For Shape Mating 

A careful study of the topic that relates to physical charac- 
teristics, along with the immediate preceding one about color 
points, will give practically all essentials that enter into breed- 
ing for both shape and color. Analyze the former intelligently, 
and apply the latter in connection so near as it can possibly be 
adapted. Use judgment and common sense with what science of 
breeding one has available. Adjust inferior points in one with 
superior ones in the other, and remember continually that from 
the sire emanate the blood line qualities for which we aim. 

I have no doubt about not a few fanciers taking issue with 
my views concerning my contention for superiority in the sire. 
I have not the least objection, and entirely appreciate that the 
nearest approach to absolute fact is derived from deductions out 
of our differences. Yet I must write as I believe, out of actual 
experience and considerable research; and is it not a fact that 
in Hares, as in all other stock breeding efforts, the sire has first 
place whenever there is inquiry after new blood lines ? 

But Ambrose says, "Success is, to my mind, much more read- 
ily secured through the does than through the sires. It is the 
mothers which perpetuate the main characteristics, and yet every 

73 



one appears to crave so much for sires." The universal law of 
propagation does not justify the idea advanced in this quotation, 
nor can it be substantiated unless by instances that are excep- 
tions to general rules. Which is not saying, however, that any 
sort of mongrel female will reproduce quality stock from a high 
class sire. Such an inference is not thought of in these remarks, 
for I am speaking of stock that is supposed thoroughbred on both 
sides. 

There is no question that our present fashionable Belgian 
Hares are largely the result of breeding from young animals. 
Such a method conduces to fineness in physical features, and has 
been a leading factor, no doubt, toward getting the prominence 
of an objectionable dewlap greatly decreased. I doubt not, 
though, but that all so far accomplished has been done at con- 
siderable expense of constitutional stamina; and whether we are 
justified to make the sacrifice merely for the sake of a less useful 
yet more beautiful animal, I leave for each one's individual 
analysis. 

A few years since I wrote one of our leading fanciers for his 
opinion about mating. This is his reply: "In mating for results 
I select the doe for shape and the buck for color. To eliminate 
defects I mate a doe strong in sections of shape to a buck strong 
in color. I do this with two pairs suited to each other, then 
select a buck of the one to mate with a doe of the other, and find 
my efforts have been rewarded." Evidently his ideas run parallel 
with those of Ambrose. 

Another fancier of equal prestige, and who has made it con- 
siderable of a specialty to breed for shape, lays all success to the 
merits of a prominent sire strain imported nearly twenty years 
since; and I will qualify this by quoting what Wilkins believes is 
a sire's part in the mating; "The buck plays such an important 
part in the characteristics of the young in all points, and particu- 
larly in color, style, shape, fineness of bone, and head properties, 
that it is absolutely necessary he must be good in these points." 
It is from differences like these quoted that we must acquire our 
experience; for after all opinions are weighed, there is but one 
sensible course — use the best available specimens "on both 
sides of the family." 

My personal experience has been entirely from well chosen 
sire lines, and I am quite satisfied with it. I am convinced it is 
the correct course. Under the topic "Physical Characteristics" 
will be seen described what is demanded as correct shape. Study 
that carefully, and frame the picture in a prominent section of 
the mind, then compare with the stock intended for mating and 

74 



pair up as close to all points of quality as possible, always with 
the side of preponderance on that of the male. 

It is often important to be as well informed with regard to 
defects, as with points of perfection. If anything, the former 
give more trouble than the latter. To one specially significant (I 
am not naming it a defect) I will call attention here — that of 
"choppy behind." This is an abrupt decline of the spinal bones 
from a line across the hips to the root of the tail, giving the 
animal, in many instances, almost an angular appearance. The 
nearer an unbroken arch is shown by the spinal curve from 
directly behind the shoulders to the root cf the tail, the better 
will all other outlines harmonize. I doubt if this failing is much 
a result of strain, as it is from small quarters and consequent 
lack of jumping exercises. 

Also avoid thick heads, lopped ears, and legs that stand 
distinctly in or out. 

I have often been asked as to the propriety of breeding from 
stock that carries the tail sidewise. When specimens of high 
quality are otherwise available I would not use such; but if a 
specimen of excellent points in all other respects, with just this 
one failing, I should not hesitate to use it — providing the anato- 
my of the tail is perfect. Physical defects are always apparent 
at birth, so that by careful examination of youngsters, all un- 
promising ones can be destroyed. What will turn out as a 
"twisted tail" can be clearly seen before the youngster is three 
days old. It is anatomical malformation due to only partially 
developed vertebrae, or the ligaments that hold them together. 
But if the miniature tail shows straight at birth, and subse- 
quently "floats" to one or the other side, it will be a condition of 
habit or overgrowth, rather than a defect. I don't like a "float- 
ing tail," but when there is no physical defect, an otherwise good 
specimen should not be condemned on this account alone. 

I have noticed that rapid growth, all the more when inten- 
sified by humid warm weather, is a contributing factor toward 
this failing. Likewise, inactivity enforced by small quarters. 

Above all, do not mate specimens not in their full vigor. 
Shape will be influenced by a diseased body. 

Study for the Standard of the Belgian Hare 

REMARKS — A Standard for judging Belgians should con- 
stitute sufficient verbiage to make every passage clear and free 
from misleading descriptives. 

The true virgin hare, to whatever country it may be "indi- 
genous" has never been domesticated, nor has it been hybridized 

75 



(so far as definitely known) by admixture of blood from any 
species of either wild or domestic rabbit. The attempt was 
made but failed, notwithstanding obvious claims. 

In other words, the hare — lepus timidus — has maintained 
its zoological identity quite as individual as the elephant, lion, or 
the tiger. 

The animal we breed under the name Belgian Hare is not 
at all of the species lepus — it is purely a species of rabbit bred 
to a high degree of perfection. Belgian (Belgium) breeders, 1 
believe, claim priority to this species; but in that country nothing 
near approaching the type bred in England is produced, and Eng- 
lish fanciers can justly claim title to its present perfection. The 
Belgian Hare as reared in America (I mean the typical Belgian) 
is entirely the product of breeding stock imported from England, 
and it is the English species of it, so to say, that we must of 
necessity propagate, unless we hybridize away from the hare 
type and create an obvious one along rabbit lines. 

We may be able to, by reason of climate environment, and 
other possible influences, produce possibly somewhat of an 
American ideal though I see no advantage nor likely consum- 
mation in the attempt, nor would I advise it. 

SIZE — !The classic breeder clearly understands what size has 
to do with breeding the typical Belgian Hare. The uninformed 
has not, and unless size is made a part of type and intelligently 
standardized, it becomes objectionable in that it destroys the 
hare characteristic. Hare type stands for raciness, and this can 
not obtain when bulk is leading requirement; and there are not a 
few, I am sorry to say, who think this sacrifice should be made, 
and to whom I would suggest that if a large rabbit is desired for 
utility purposes make one by hybridizing the Belgian and Flem- 
ish, or Flemish and Silver. 

I believe it would be considerable advantage to type if the 
present weight of eight pounds were reduced a trifle, and a more 
specific classification made. The following weights, I think, 
would admit of all practical latitude for Standard results of 
breeding for racy type: 

Does above 10 months old 7 to 7V2 lbs. 

Does 8 to 10 months old 6 to 7 tbs. 

Bucks above 10 months old 6%to 7 lbs. 

Bucks 8 to 10 months old 6 to 6 Va lbs. 

All specimens under 10 months old to be considered as 
youngsters, and for judging are classed by months limit of age 
and rated by comparatives. 

76 



WHITE — There has been much discussion among foremost 
fanciers as to how much white — understood as white-bellied and 
grey haunches — should be tolerated to pass Standard criticism. 

It is a fact that there evists an innate propensity in all ani- 
mals of vari-colored fur coats, to change from dark to lighter 
shade incident to season or age. The reason is a physiological 
one, and should be considered when judging an animal of domes- 
tic breeding if this characteristic is apparent. To allow certain 
degrees of white and grey (with consideration of the above phe- 
nomena) appropriately placed without jeopardizing the standard 
body color, would appear admissable. In other words, a speci- 
men answering to every characteristic of type and color features 
should not be thrown out unless the white on belly and under jaw 
and grey on haunches exceeds a qualified per cent, into the 
other color (rufous). 

DEWLAP — This appendage is characteristic of the rabbit 
species, and NOT of the hare. Its presence is evidence of 
"breeding back" to an original rabbit strain. The nearer free 
(and absolutely, if possible) a Belgian Hare strain is kept of it 
by scientific breeding, the closer a pure hare type will it attain. 
But since the present Belgian is withal NOT a hare per se, its 
presence to a degree is justifiable, and should not debar a speci- 
men from qualifying in its class. 

[NOTE — The dewlap is not a deformity, nor a disqualifying 
characteristic, unless so abnormally large as to make it such, and 
clearly indicate the specimen to be entirely foreign to the Belgian 
Hare type. It so happens that many otherwise good specimens 
show this appendage in various degrees of development; but 
which was not apparent prior to maternity, or a certain age, 
which have reproduced others entirely free from it. These fac- 
tors should be considered when judging; but a male specimen 
with more than a mere evidence of dewlap, is to say the least, 
undesirable as a stock-getter, and should be disqualified if it is 
akin to that in a doe. The dewlap should not be confused with a 
not infrequent udder-like enlargement of the breast incident to 
maternity and which will disappear after the nursing period 
(unless the doe is again soon bred).] 

COLOR — ^Much discussion and sometimes very caustic, was 
had as to what constitutes rufous red. According to some auth- 
orities, it is a term that admits of a varied interpretation, and 
the dictionaries define it as identifying a compound color. 

The term rufous is from the latin rubro, meaning red. Spell- 
ed r-u-f-u-s, is the technical Latin form and is translated r-u-f- 
o-u-s, meaning a shade of red; but nowhere is any reason essayed 

77 



why it should identify as brownish-red or a "red tinjged toward 
brown," as dictionaries define the term. 

Breeders, according to their fancy, contend for "Golden 
chestnut" as the correct shade; some say "golden tan" as still 
more ideal, and others again say "chestnut tan" — so on pro and 
con, with no one exactly satisfied. Because of this contention, 
therefore, I make the term as clear as we at present understand 
it. Brownish-red is all that can be analyzed out of the term 
rufous. Of gold there is a light and dark shade according to per 
cent, of alloy present; but virgin gold is a characteristic tinge, 
shade or color, as you please, of specific identity. There is no 
tinge just like it. Of tan and chestnut there are degrees of 
shade; but it is that shade defined as brownish-red with which 
we have apparently to do and it is the degrees of intensity, there- 
fore, of this latter tinge from light to dark that must constitute 
one's judgment of what we understand as rufous. To formulate 
an ideal color effect in harmony with the conception of the term 
one will reason thus — ^take virgin gold as the standard for red, 
and the dark shade of a ripe chestnut for brown; tone down the 
density of the latter with the mellow tinge of the former, and 
you have rufous as it should show on the Belgian Hare. 

TYPE — This term has also caused much discussion, all I 
trow, due to either misconception or misunderstanding, or pos- 
sibly both, A small knowledge of Natural History, Biology and 
a bit of Comparative Anatomy, will harmonize definitives nicely 
so we can apply the word shape as being more commonly clear. 

In its compactness type virtually IS shape, though many will 
haggle otherwise; but what I wish to convey by both (if you 
please) is — the physical characteristics of the animal one ob- 
serves as a whole, or perhaps more desirably, an ideal whole. 
Literally it means "a stamp or mark"; that is, an impress, con- 
tour, outline, or physical conformity to a prescribed pattern — if 
the latter term is allowed. Color is a nominal characteristic; but 
is not essentially a part of type. The type that should "stamp" 
the Belgian Hare as ideal must portray raciness — slender, reachy 
body, thin, firm and lengthy limbs; narrow, racy-looking head; 
bright, bold, attentive eyes; eai's long, thin, almost transparent, 
and continually posed for attention — the animal altogether por- 
traying a qui vive entirely free from sluggishness, slouch and 
pudginess. 



Official Belgian Hare Standard 

Adopted by The National Pet Stock Association of America 
(Same as the English Standard) 

Points 
COLOR — Rich rufous red (not dark smudy color) carried 
well down sides and hind-quarters and as little white 
under-jaws as possible 20 

SHAPE — Body long, thin, well tucked up at flank and well 
rigged up, back slightly arched, loins well rounded, not 
choppy; head rather lengthy, muscular chest, tail straight, 
not screwed; and altogether of racy appearance 20 

TICKING — ^Rather wavy appearance and plentiful 10 

EARS — About five inches long, thin and well laced on tips, 
and as far down the outside edge as possible. Good color 
inside and outside, and well set on 10 

EYES — Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold 10 

LEGS AND FEET— Fore feet and legs long, straight, slen- 
der, well-colored, and free from white bars; hindfeet well 
colored 10 

WITHOUT DEWLAP ; 10 

SIZE— iSeven to Eight pounds 5 

CONDITION— Perfectly healthy, not fat, but flesh firm like 
a race-horse, and a good quality of fur 5 

100 




American Spotted Kahhit. Side Markings too small and 

Indistinct. Saddle too broken. Cheek spots 

Smaller and Round 



Table of Weights 



Below will be found a table of approximate weights of the 
"meat" varieties, attainable by proper feeding and care. While 
the weights here given are in some cases slightly in excess of 
actual Standard requirements, the breeder should strive to attain 
them, or even exceed them, and be satisfied with nothing less. 

3 Mo. 4 Mo. 5 Mo. 6 Mo. Maturity 
Steel Grey Flemish 



American Spots , _ ^,, ^ .^,,^ .,-«. 

oVa tbs. SVz lbs. 9^/2 lbs. lOM; lbs. 15 lbs 



7 tbs. 


9 Ibs.lOVa lbs. 


12 lbs. 17 tbs, 


4V2 lbs. 


5 lbs. 6 tbs. 


7 tbs. 11 tbs, 


51/2 lbs. 


7 lbs. 8 lbs. 


9 tbs. 13 lbs. 



I 

Solid Colored Giants ( 
Grey Flemish—Bucks' 
Grey Flemish— Does 
New Zealands 
Belgian Giants 

While the Belgian Hare is still classed as a meat, or utility 
rabbit, and at one time easily held a position as leader among 
the table or meat varieties, it has of late years been compelled to 
yield a place in the front ranks for the Giant varieties and the 
New Zealands. In the Belgian Hare, many of the qualities nec- 
essary in a utility rabbit have been sacrificed for the sake of 
fancy alone. To strive for a big carcass and tender meat in a 
Belgian Hare would be to forever bar it from winning in the 
show room. The hard racy appearance of the Belgian Hare can 
only be attained by somewhat scant feeding and plenty of hard 
exercise. For this reason no weights are given in above table 
for the Belgian. Most of the winning specimens in the show 
room weigh much less than that specified in the Standard. On 
the other hand, we have never seen or heard of a competent 
judge penalizing a Giant for overweight. The bigger, the better 
chance of winning — everything else considered — providing the 
weight is not obtained by an overly fat condition. 



8Q 



Breeding, Building Up a Strain 
and Inbreeding 

By Dr. Roth 

Associated with the breeding of every species of live stock 
there is continually present this persistent bugbear that relates 
to in breeding — the theories for and against it. Inherent within 
one's self, no one seems to like it, yet in the regular order of 
breeding for specific points there appears no other way. 

We all are repugnant of the idea associated with mixing 
blood of relations, and when it comes to pairing father with 
daughter, brother with sister, or son with mother, we just natur- 
ally think it is dreadful. 

Regarding such matings in the human family, both Bible and 
Law has set a ban against it, yet it could not have been otherwise 
than from such relationship that every species of living thing 
emanated, if we are to believe the story of Creation, the Flood, 
of doddering old Lot, and other instances of sacred and profane 
history. But the subject is one th-at can be made a volume by 
itself so that I shall limit myself conservatively. 

One primary factor is, to what extent will psychological in- 
fluence bear on sex combination. With regard to the human 
species, science has evolved the knowledge of relationship be- 
tween mind and matter, and it is believed the former can mater- 
ially influence the latter, hence the social and legal ban against 
the mingling of related blood. 

In creatures of the animal kingdom psychology is supposed 
to have no part, and therefore inbreeding can not influence tissue 
formation. Mr. Noble says, "In the lower animals there is no 
mental strain to take into consideration," nor can there be any 
knowledge among them that the remotest blood-relationship 
exists. I have in a number of instances observed, in dogs, we"ll 
say, that a certain endowment of memory is apparent. After 
considerable association, sudden separation for some period 
(quite long, one would think), and subsequent coming together 
again, joyful recognition was manifest; but the matter of blood- 
relationship never seemed the least check to familiarity. Often, 
also, have I noted the gradual growth of a litter of kittens, baby 

81 



pigs, a pair of pigeons, half a dozen puppies, a young lamb, and 
a "nest" of Belgians, with a view to studying the length and per- 
manency of filial relationship and parental affection; but in 
every instance, so soon as the parent voluntarily "weaned" its 
young, there was apparent no further consideration for it than 
that of tolerated companionship, and often not that. In the 
light of these facts, Mr, Noble practically asks, "I am still wait- 
ing to know why I should not put together any pair of rabbits, 
that from outward appearance, are perfectly suitable in every 
respect, both physically and for producing exhibition points." 

Another breeder says, "I never consider blood-relationship 
at all, and do not hesitate to pair father with daughter, or 
brother with sister." 

In no country, perhaps, is inbreeding made a practice in the 
rearing of live stock as is applied to every species of it in Eng- 
land. It seems an obsession, and a sensible one, mayhap, over 
there. Rabbits, and Belgians in particular, have been so long 
inbred that Ambrose remarks concerning it, "We sometimes 
think we are using quite another strain, when in reality we find, 
on inquiry, that the stock is not far removed from those which 
we ourselves are depending upon for success." 

I do not wish to set myself down authoritatively as individ- 
ually advocating either cross-breeding, line-breeding, or in-breed- 
ing — rather as remarking of each impartially; but I am not 
averse to an acknowledgment, until better informed, that a care- 
ful study, associated with personal experiments, of the more 
recent points and developments relative to the breeding of live 
stock, has modified my views largely in harmony with those of 
Dr. Schroeder, Superintendent of the U. S. Bureau of Animal In- 
dustry, who says, "I am strongly inclined to believe that the evils 
attributed to inbreeding have been greatly over-rated." 

It is interesting to note what the U. S. Department of Agri- 
culture is doing through its several subsidiary divisions by way 
of experimenting along all principal lines that relate to mating 
of the different species of domestic animals and fowls. Special 
attention is given the Mendel theory, as laid down by the monk 
of this name, whose work consisted entirely, it appears, in exper- 
imenting with plants. Government experts believed that the law 
discovered by hybridizing vegetables, and flowers, would hold 
out with similar effect when applied to breeding live stock; and 
while not carried far in this direction as yet, indications point to 
successful results. 

Briefly, the Mendel theory is that of "inheritance of ances- 
tral traits," or plainly that of inbreeding. It embodies the prin- 
ciple of dominancy and recession in succeeding generations, and 

82 



implies, also, that each subsequent third generation in a lineal 
descent is characterized by predominant physical points of merit 
to determine in the ratio of three to one. That is, in a third gen- 
eration there appear three "dominants" to one "recessive," and 
it is by mating continually out of the former that eventual per- 
fection in thorough breeding is attained. 

I have neither time or space to remark at length on the 
numerous scientific points involved in line- and inbreeding, but 
it appears the only logical course for the attainment of specific 
characteristics. 

There are three forms of breeding as classified by the terms 
cross-breeding, line-breeding, and in-breeding. There are defined 
as follows: 

Cross-Breeding is the mating of two thoroughbred breeds 
of diverse species, as the Hackney and Trotting horse, Alderney 
and Holstein cow, Bulldog and Hound, Belgian and Flemish, or 
Dutch and Silver, etc. Subsequent matings of such offspring can 
be line- or in-bred. 

Line-Breeding is mating individual specimens of a breed 
when interruption in relationship exists by remoteness. 

In-Breeding is the mating of closely related ones of the same 
species. 

Line-breeding is illustrated by the subjoined pedigree dia- 
gram representing straight line descent for both sire and dam. 
For convenience I will name two pair by Sheriden mated to 
Bessie, and Roger to Queenie: 





Bessie III 


Sheriden II 


Bessie 








Queenie II 


Sheriden 
Bessie 




Sheriden III 






Roger II 


Roge? 


Sheriden IV 


Queenie 










Bessie 11 


Rogei' 




Queenie 








Sheriden 



In-breeding needs no illustration, since it implies the mating 
of direct relations, as, father to daughter; son to mother; brother 
to sister; father to daughter by brother and sister; mother to 
son by daughter and brother, etc. 

83 



With regard to this latter form of breeding the U. S. Bureau 
of Animal Husbandry has bred brother and sister mated in se- 
quence order down to the 10th generation. Cavies being the 
example, and regarding which Dr. Schroeder writes me, "We 
have found nothing to indicate that the intensest form of in- 
breeding, carried on for nine or ten generations, is injurious. 
That for the preservations and perpetuation of especially fine 
points, and for the establishment of new breeds through the 
selection of naturally occurring mutations we are practically 
forced to resort to in-breeding." 

It was apparent that the 9th generation in this instance was 
represented by as good health, vigor and Standard points of 
merit, as the parent stock of the 1st; and, if anything, all points 
were finely accentuated. The experiment also appeared to show 
a pi'edominance of the "dominant" elements over the "recessive" 
in every 3rd sequence. 

Here is an example of absolute straight line descent without 
a vestige of foreign blood from the second mating on, yet no 
deterioration in a single element. 

One factor stands out pre-eminently above all others in its 
relation to breeding, no matter along what line the latter is 
practiced — that of health, and the possibilities from heredity. 
One should never mate specimens containing physical' defects, 
nor when affected with disease whose transmission is known to 
influence the offspring. I am not alluding to physical faults, nor 
to diseases that are curable by proper treatment. These will not 
transmit defects; but in the event of in-breeding, essentially close 
in-breeding, physical defects will likely be greatly accentuated, 
and constitutional disease all the more. 

To start breeding do not begin haphazard. Become ac- 
quainted beforehand with the salient principles involved. 

The indiscriminate mixing of blood lines without any knowl- 
edge of results, is like trying to steer a ship without a rudder. 
Don't pin faith on the mere assertion that like reproduces like, 
for unless one knows how Nature does this, she may shoot very 
wide of the mark. She has immutable laws by which she works, 
and reproduces defects just as likely as points of merit. She 
dabbles intimately with the phenomena of heredity. 

Study carefully the chapter that relates to physical charac- 
teristics, and apply its qualifications to both sire and dam, with 
their preponderance in favor of the former. This means all that 
is embodied in shape and color. But when purchasing never ask 
for a perfect specimen; for there is none. All domestic varieties 
of rabbits are what they are by virtue of being "made" so, hence 

84 



imperfections continuously crop out. So when buying from a re- 
liable fancier who is a real breeder, say to what you aspire 
rather than just what you want; for it is not always that what 
appears the most ideal specimens from a show Standard which 
will reproduce their kind in exact duplicate. The matter of gen- 
ealogy must never be forgotten, nor that of dominancy for the 
prevailing traits. Buy from a breeder who understands the 
science associated with the art of propagating a species,, then 
build up one's own strain. 

Building up a strain implies a start with specimens selected 
to represent certain qualities and then enlarging these by a 
process of development and elimination. That is, points of merit 
are to improve, and those of demerit bred out. 

I am presuming one is starting out as a novice with the idea 
of occupying a position in the Fancy. In such event, as said, buy 
from a reliable fancier breeder whose strain has the reputation of 
careful building up for a number of years. See that the stock is 
free from constitutional disease. Select specimens that repre- 
sent, at the present desire "golden tan," or yellow rufous, and 
those of the "chestnut tan" or real rufous. To maintain the 
former persistently requires the latter. Neither in itself, will 
breed true continuously without variation. The "golden tan" is 
liable to shade into lighter, while the "chestnut tan" has a ten- 
dency toward brown, with an excess of ticking; but by a careful 
adjustment of blood lines in the two, one can always expect 
desirable show specimens. 

The matter of mating related specimens I leave for study 
by the fancier after a careful perusal of the views brought out 
in the foregoing remarks. 




Black Giant. (Jood Color and Type 



Pedigree 

By Dr. Roth 

This is also a bugbear that is not a specially creditable one 
in the rabbit fancy. That it is discreditable is no fault of the 
topic, and that contemptible fraud is practiced by falsifying the 
lineage of a specimen does not prove that a record of blood lines 
represented by a given strain is not the right thing to maintain. 

I hold that, notwithstanding all the howl sent up by those 
who antagonize pedigree, it is the only course for the main- 
tenance of a true knowledge of one's stock. I have not yet ob- 
served one make a consistent argument against pedigree, and 
those who are noisiest in antagonism are the most earnest to 
know what they buy as represented in a reliable record of line- 
age. That a faker can fake is quite true; but not more so than 
that an honest breeder is honest. As a rule, a specimen carries 
inherently the qualities it possesses, and these are always palp- 
able to the informed observer who knows what they ought to be. 

By all means keep a record of every animal bred along thor- 
ough lines. Without a record of its lineage, what can be known 
regarding its possibilities for the future. Deductions are impos- 
sible without a recorded formula that leads to results. However, 
any discussion of this topic is superfluous for the reason that it 
is a universal rule among stock breeders of all varieties of 
thoroughbred domestic animals, is the sole guide to success, and 
if not maintained one had as well do a market business from 
the outset. 




A Very (; I lliinlish. Tlu' Chain Markings 

Should Extend Nearer to Base of Ear, and 
Body Markings are a Little Too Profuse 

86 



Feeding 

By Dr. Roth 

To be successful with rabbits depends perhaps more on prac- 
tical and common sense feeding than any other feature connected 
with their "bringing up." 

And on the other hand, I am safe in saying that more 
losses of stock are directly attributable to carelessness or pos- 
sibly overzealousness of it, than all other adversities. Indeed, 
the rabbit is by nature, so singularly free from disease ( and ver- 
min) in any form, that whatever ailments are encountered in 
various ways are nearly all traceable to some error in supplying 
food. 

Nearly every fancier and breeder of some import furnishes 
a circular or brochure in response to an application or sale of 
stock, and it is of considerable interest to read over the obvious 
instructions vouchsafed in it, particularly with regard to feeding. 
There are few directions in which all agree, and the variance 
is so great that a beginner must become seriously confused, 
with the chances of making mistakes very much in his favor. 
Then, too, what one reads in the several magazines, which devote 
space to rabbit topics is also of such wide range of opinion 
that one at first sight must almost conclude that no fixed rule 
for feeding exists, and that each manages tolerably near accord- 
ing to his own notions. And, is such a conclusion far wrong, 
I trow ? 

One breeder speaks of green things with utter fear — (almost 
dismay and uses only the littlest of little of it; another is more 
liberal, but conservative in quantity, while a third gives as much 
as the rabbits wish to eat, and all three get along without trouble, 
apparently. Some advise certain foods in the form of mash, any- 
way from soft to dry, others feed no mash at all. Then growing 
youngsters come in for special dieting up to a certain age, and 
again they come in just the same as the old ones. Thus opinions 
shift along, and the rabbits that don't die from over-attention 
may die for want of it, and the rest grow up. 

But, seriously, feeding should be managed along intelligent 
lines just as everything else — not overdone, nor underdone. Com- 
mon sense comes nearer being pleasing to the rabbits than too 

87 



much concern or not enough. No matter what the creature may 
be that one takes up for either fancy or utility purposes — from 
the larger animals to the smaller pets — to be successful with 
their "bringing up" the lirst essential is some knowledge of their 
instincts and physical characteristics. In the case of the rabbit, 
we know how it lives in the wild state, and that its domestication 
was a gradual advancement from that into its present, which 
should imply, that its food now cannot be greatly modified from 
what it finds when compelled to hunt for it — summer and winter. 
To know what this is should not be at all difficult; for a rabbit 
exists about exactly as a sheep would were the latter to seek 
food as an undomesticated animal. This holds good in the do- 
mestic state as well. P'eed the rabibts as one feeds sheep, and 
there can't be much room for error. 

One instinctive characteristic of the rabbits and which to me 
personally has been a guiding factor in the successful rearing of 
it, is that it prefers to feed at night. Unless annoyed, the rabbit 
in its wild state is quiet during the day, and the Belgian very 
much so if undisturbed, and sees no one. I make it a rule to have 
mine as little disturbed in daytime as possible, and in connection 
with this thought I will give my method of feeding and the feed 
I use. 

My rabbits are never restless until approach of evening 
"meal time" which is invariably at sunset. Then they are fed 
sufficient that I know the stomach is full in the morning, and the 
days of long nights, I give but one mess in 24 hours. They are 
glad to see me in the morning, but not frantic for food, and all 
they get is a swish of clover hay, or every third day something 
green. With regard to the latter I am very particular that no 
medicinal plants are fed. By instinct, a rabbit does not eat them 
in the wild, but a domestic rabbit by being sometimes long de- 
prived of greens, occasionally forgets himself. Dandelion is 
injurious and plantain should be fed only sparingly. Turnips 
and carrots are a good relish now and then; but hay-clover, 
alfalfa, or timothy is most I feed, both green and cured. Mash 
feed of any sort I don't use, nor milk at all. Pure water is the 
only liquid — twice a week in winter, and every day in summer. 
Once a week I mix a teaspoon tincture of iron in half a bucket 
of water — a tonic in a way, and keeps them slick. So far I had 
no sickness among my stock. 

(NOTE. Have received several requests for more definite 
information on use of tincture of iron. Dr. Roth evidently re- 
ferred to the ordinary ten or twelve quart pail. I usually pre- 
scribe ten drops to a quart, which would be a teaspoonful to six 
ouarts — about the same as evidently meant by above. C. R. D.) 

88 



My regular feed for the substantial evening mess consists of 
bran, 1% parts; ground oats, 1 part; whole oats, 1 part; whole 
wheat, V2 part; cracked corn, V2 part, and hominy ^ part, thor- 
oughly mixed. Young and old are fed alike, except as to quan- 
tity per animal. Of course, I expect many to differ with my 
method, and I shall not object. I have my reasons for feeding 
this way; my pets are happy, and healthy, and sleek as eels; and 
as said, were well since I have them. I might add that twice a 
week I mix a tablespoonful fine salt to four quarts of feed as an 
elementary essential. Some breeders keep a lump of rock-salt in 
the run — a serious mistake I think — for salt is a poison in an 
over indulgence, and causes bowel trouble. I do no exhibiting at 
shows, but such as do, usually devote some extra attention to 
feeding in the hope of developing extra sheen in the "coat," 
and a brisker appearance in general. In England, this is done 
to quite some degree, and not a few enterprising parties advertise 
"just the thing to make you win." It is the same in this country 
and as a precaution wish to say that all "condition" feeds and 
powders are injudicious extras prepared from business motives, 
and buyers should know that the various cereals and vegetables 
which constitute the food of grain eating animals contain all 
the nutrient nature intended they should have. Feeds containing 
condiments or medicinal ingredients should always be used with 
discretion, and all mixtures of this sort that ever came under my 
notice were merely a combination of the grains usually fed in- 
dividually in a way, with either cottonseed meal, gluten in dis- 
guised form, or sugar obviously prepared, added, with all of 
which the well informed breeder is likely acquainted beforehand. 
These mixtures cost more than regular feed, but are they worth 
more ? One important consequence should be persistently re- 
membered with regard to the use of prepared feeds — they usually 
contain stimulating material in some form — an unnatural effect 
upon flesh tissue — the re-action from which is always detrimental 
far in excess to the apparent benefit. The only safe line of 
correct feeding lies along the course laid out by the physiological 
laws in nature. 

A few paragraphs ahead I spoke of feeding no milk in any 
form to my stock. I don't like it, and found no occasion to do so. 
Many, however, do, and I do not wish to advise specially against 
the use of it as a food. I receive numerous inquiries along all 
lines of interest in breeding rabbits, and among them are many 
asking the advisability or propriety of using it for young and 
old stock. The great danger of feeding milk lies in chemical 
changes. That it is a good feed for young stock is true, but 
remember, young rabbits in the wild state don't have it after the 

89 



mother forsakes them. Milk as a diet for young animals was 
not intended for them longer than the parent supplies it. If 
one does feed it after weaning the brood, great care is required 
that it is perfectly "fresh," and only so much given as will be 
consumed at once. Let none sour in the dish, for sour milk is 
acid, and causes what in rabbits is known as "slobbers" — a very 
annoying trouble. Remember, too, it is an animal fluid, and not 
identical to water as a liquid. Ptomaine poisoning is possible 
from it. If mixed with dry feed of any sort, be sure that the dry 
feed contains nothing that will cause chemical changes in the 
milk. With these precautions in mind, it can safely be used as a 
feed. I have on several occasions noticed "directions" for feeding 
cabbage. Some eschew it as a poison for rabbits, while others 
feed it freely. It is not a poison, and rabbits are fond of it, 
especially as a green food in winter; but, like all things, don't 
overfeed, and be sure it was not treated with a paris-green solu- 
tion against worms in its early growth; nor previously frozen. 

Potatoes I never feed, nor do rabbits care for them. Boiled 
and crumpled in with dry feed, they should not be objectionable; 
but I consider them too rich in starch unless fed very sparingly. 
Sweet-potatoes are not as rich in starch as "white," and are 
somewhat allied to carrots. I feed them sparingly when I have 
no carrots or turnips. Indeed, all greens should be fed with 
caution against excess. In summer time when clover is plenty, 
I feed it daily in conjunction with cured hay — mornings — but it 
must be fresh cut. Wilted grass, for obvious reasons, is objec- 
tionable. Because greens are so plenty during the summer sea- 
son there is grave danger in overfeeding bunny with it, and I 
have observed that paralysis is one of the results by losing sev- 
eral valuable young on an occasion when I was called away pro- 
fessionally for three or four consecutive days, while the chil- 
dren enjoyed themselves "tending bunny while you was 'way, 
papa." 

Cleanliness is just as essential for the maintenance of 
healthy stock as regularity and quality of feeding. 

To render one's stock a pleasure and profit one must have 
no smaller measure of enthusiasm, which implies, that what is 
worth doing at all is worth doing well, as some moralist has it. 
No man can be a true fancier or successful breeder and make a 
name for himself unless he diffuses enthusiasm throughout his 
hobby. Every creature reared for man's pleasure and benefit 
must be made comfortable if its most perfect physical character- 
istics are to be expected. 



90 



Hutches 



By Dr. Roth 

This means a chest, box, case, or bin, in which rabbits are 
kept. The little creatures are not at all particular as to dimen- 
sions, style, or expense laid out to keep them; but with rabbits, 
as with the care of all other animals, if one desires to get on well 
with them it is essential that they are kept with regard to com- 
fort and cleanliness. It does not matter, either, whether reared 
for fancy or iftility purposes, comfort and cleanliness count as 
much for one as the other, because both are absolutely essential 
to bring up a beautiful animal as well as a useful one. 

The character of the hutches depends on the number of rab- 
bits one intends to rear, and say any number upwards of twenty, 
the most ideal method is to have them side by side, so built with 
wire netting that they can see each other. The matter of size is 
optional, and should be arranged in harmony with the number to 
be kept in one compartment. Some breeders build their hutches 
one tier above the other, no doubt as a matter of economy ^f or 
space. This method is objectionable for sanitary reasons, not- 
withstanding every effort to have the floor above unleakable 
tight. 

As said, with reference to feeding, so in this — keep as close 
to nature as one can possibly manage, and this implies, that a 
bare space on the ground is nearest right. Here again I will give 
my method of housing my pets — not essentially as an authority — 
but as information for the beginner. I keep a tier of four roomy 
hutches specially built for four breeding does. These I had made 
out of two piano boxes sawed in halves and set ends on, with each 
an outside run, making the room occupied by one doe 2%x3 in- 
side, and 3x4% outside, and 2 feet high along the lowest roof- 
line. The nest boxes are fastened on the outside along the back 
(entire length) a foot wide, and one and one-half high, with a 
sloping roof cover on hinges. Thus arranged, one can examine 
the nest without disturbing the doe, besides being convenient for 
cleaning. 

As a precaution against rats I built the floor one foot from 
the ground, and space partition and pen surrounding of one-inch 
mesh wire netting. The wood bottom floor is kept covered with 

91 



straw inside, and outside with sand and fine straw. Of course, 
my breeding hutches are quite roomy to be occupied by a single 
doe to each compartment, and smaller spaces by one foot every 
way would answer nearly as well; but if you have the room to 
spare, make bunny happy with space for needful exercise, espec- 
ially for the babies up to weaning time. 

It is a rule with me to breed at least two does a few days 
apart, so the young can be penned together after removal from 
the mother. 

My large runs for the growing youngsters are so far, four 
in number, 2% feet wide, and 18 long, with a "hiding" box at the 
far end. These have ground floors covered with 2 inch mesh wire 
netting — no, they don't dig through this — they try it once, that's 
all. Besides these, I keep ten extra hutches — two for individual 




bucks, four for emergency, and four smaller ones for hospital 
purposes. I also have a prison for unruly tyrants. All these 
occupy a ground space of 24x30 feet, which is entirely covered 
with a roof of tar-paper fastened on skeleton frame-work as a 
protection from the elements and hot sun in summer, of course, 
strict attention is given to thorough disinfection aside from the 
regular cleaning. For this I use the commercial (crude) carbolic 
acid, which is sprinkled along the sides and corners, inside and 
out. Droppings are cleaned out every alternate day in summer 
and once a week in cold and freezing weather. In short, the 
hutches must be kept clean, dry and disinfected, so I can go out 
any time, take up a bunny and handle it without soiling my hands 
or clothes. 

92 



Now, this is my way of doing things, and as previously 
noted, no sickness has as yet given me trouble of any sort. 

In England, the breeding of rabbits is recognized as a fancy, 
upwards of half a century, and in the past twenty years has re- 
ceived more scientific attention than in any other country, and 
while individual breeders do not perhaps conduct rabbitries on so 
large a scale as some in America, there are more devoted to it. 
In breeding the Belgian Hare special attention is given to the 
racy type so characteristic of the English wild hare, and to this 
end the hutches of this variety are built high, rather than wide 
and long. This is a commendable idea, and goes far toward 
obviating crouchiness, with the accompanying tendency to de- 
velop the objectionable dewlap. Various contrivances, also, are 
resorted to with a view to the development of ideal points such 




as placing a board cross-wise in the run a foot or so high for 
jumping exercise, which is supposed to give length of limb, span 
from shoulder to sacrum (across hips), well set ears, and tuck-up 
of flank. Feed boxes are built to compel a stretch of the neck 
in order to reach the food, another factor toward creating length. 
Such adjuncts are of course, only novelties toward an end; but 
are indeed essential for obviating objectionable tendencies and 
training out desirable ones. Then, too, many fanciful ideas can 
be carried out in constructing hutches which go far to give the 
breeding an appearance of taste in commendable harmony with 
the spirit implied by the term Fancy. 

Breeding on a large scale necessarily requires space com- 
mensurate with the number one's quarter is to contain, and in all 

93 



events must be so that the timid ones in a batch have toom to 
evade the tyrants ahways found among it. Absolute freedom 
for exercise is an essential in utility breeding as well as fancy. 

To breed on a small scale and with limited space individual 
specimens should, if at all possible, never be given less room than 
4 feet long, iy2 wide and 2 to 'i high. This is, for such who desire 
only a few specimens for occasional table use, and while rearing 
them thus they will do well when sensibly attended — in open or 
closed quarters — they do best of all with as much room as one 
can spare. 

A convenient indoor hutch (Fig. 1) is one 6 by 2 feet, with a 
movable partition dividing off a third of the space at one end 
for a nest and sleeping chamber. The partition has a smooth 
hole to permit passage of the animals from one part to the other. 




The front of the hutch has two doors, one of wire netting, the 
other of wood. The wooden door leads to the sleeping chamber 
and should close tightly. It is best to use metal hinges for the 
doors. The partition may slide in a groove between the doors or 
may be put in and taken out through one of the door openings. 

Outdoor hutches should have sloping roofs and overhanging 
eaves to protect them from rain. The screen door should have 
a sliding cover of wood or be fitted with a removable cloth cover. 
Small holes bored near the top of the hutch will afford all neces- 
sary ventilation. 

Movable hutches (Fig. 2) have some advantages. They may 
be carried outdoor in fine weather and taken back under shelter 

94 



at night during storms. Long, narrow cleats projecting at both 
ends of the hutch are all that are needed to convert the ordinary 
hutch into a movable one. Two forms of outdoor hutch some- 
times used are shown in Figures 3 and 4. That in figure 3 has 
no floor except a wire screen, permitting the rabbits to eat grass. 

In conclusion of this topic on hutches allow me to emphasize 
again the positive necessity of cleanliness and disinfection, 
whether the room occupied be large or small; for once sickness 
gets among a herd its eradication is often a serious trouble. An 
excellent disinfection, as well as a point of cleanliness, is to 
whitewash all board-work with a lime solution strongly impreg- 
nated with crude carbolic acid and if a handful of salt is added 




to the lime while slacking hot, its "sticking" and lasting quality 
is greatly enhanced. By following along the lines here explained, 
the housing of rabbits will be a matter of comfort and success, 
with every possible soUrce of disease eliminated. 



An Ideal Rabbitry 

By C. R. Deardorff 

There are many styles of rabbit houses, good, bad and in- 
ilifTerent. Some have been built with the sole idea of keeping 
"bunny" warm; some with the idea of getting the largest pos- 
sible number in the smallest possible space without any regard 
to ventilation; some to the other extreme of a large and expen- 
sive house with few hutches; and some with no definite idea at 
all. These are all radically wrong. The rabbit does not need, 
nor does it succeed in a warm building. All it needs is protec- 
tion from drafts, storms, excessive heat and strong sunlight. 
Given these, together with correct sanitation and feeding meth- 
ods, and we need not give a thought to any cold less severe than 
20 degrees below zero. It is true that warmth is necessary to 
obtain great earage in the Lops, and great size in the Giants, but 
if warmth is obtained at the expense of ventilation and pure air 
— then earage and size is obtained at the expense of vitality. 

It has been demonstrated and proven that the "open front" 
style is the only really successful method of housing. In this 
style, the rear end and both sides are boarded up tight, and the 
front mostly or entirely open, being covered only with close mesh 
wire netting to keep out rats, mice, birds, etc. Burlap or muslin 
covered frames are provided to close the openings in stormy or 
extremely cold weather. These curtains, by reducing the rapid 
circulation of the air, tend to retain the warmth generated by 
the animals' bodies, and at the same time permit the escape of 
impure air through the pores of the fabric. 

Many are building long houses with tiers of hutches run- 
ning lengthwise of the building, at the rear, and a long aisle 
running entire length of building in front of hutches. This is 
much better than a closed house, but has some serious objections. 
In the first place, it is expensive. Did you ever stop to figure 
that a long house takes much more material than a square one 
of the same capacity ? 

Another objection is that the long house is subject to bad 
drafts, unless partitions are built every 12 or 14 feet. 

To overcome these objections, and at the same time retain 
all the advantages of the "open front" house, I have devised 
and offer in this chapter, plans and specifications of my Ideal 
Rabbitry. 

96 



Bill of Materia: 

2 pieces, 2 in. by 6 in. by 14 ft. for end sills. 

2 pieces, 2 in. by 6 in. by 16 ft. for side sills. 

13 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 14 ft. for studding. 
4 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. for plates. 

7 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 16 ft. for rafters. 

3 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 14 ft. for uprights. 
315 sq. ft. roof sheathing. 

450 sq. ft. drop sldii.g, 14 ft. and 16 ft. lengths. 
3 rolls roofing. 

14 feet, 42 inch poultry netting, 1 inch mesh, for front. 
20 lineal feet IVi in. by 4 in. for door frame. 

1 set: — lock, latch and hinges. 
For hutches: — • 

420 sq. ft. flooring, 12 ft. lengths. 

350 lineal feet Ix'A, for door frames. 

115 lineal feet V2 ii-ch mesh wire, 18 inches wide, for doors. 

12 pieces 1 in. by 4 in. by 12 ft. face strips to hang doors on. 

3 pieces 1 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. for bottom of partitions under 
hay racks. 

4 pieces 1 in. by 8 in. by 14 ft. uprights in front of hay racks. 
9 pieces 2 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. hutch floor joists. 

97 feet, two foot poultry netting, one inch mesh, for hay 
racks and long partition in middle group of hutches. 

24 pair 3 inch T hinges. 

Sills may be laid on cement blocks, better yet built on solid 
concrete foundation. Floor may be of dirt, cinders or concrete. 
In either case build it up 4 to 6 inches inside of foundation to 
make it dry. No provision on above bill for foundation on floor. 
If wood floor is desired, add for floor joists and flooring, but such 
floors not advised on account of affording harbor for rats. Use 
16D wire spikes to nail studding, plates, etc., 7D wire nails foi 
siding, sheathing, hutch floors, facing strips, etc. — door hinges, 
latch and lock to suit your fancy. 

Cornice, frieze, corner boards, outside casing, etc., have not 
been provided for, as they are not absolutely necessary, but are 
very desirable if it can be afforded, to make an attractive out- 
side appearance. 

FIooi Plans of Ideal Rabbitry 

Dimensions, 14 feet by 16 feet; Shed roof; Rear wall, 6 feet 
high, front wall 7I/2 feet high; Each hutch, 2¥2 feet by 5V2 feet 
floor space, and 22 inches high; Three tiers of hutches — total 
number, 24. One front corner for feed bins, the other for baled 
or loose hay; If loose hay, put in an upright to keep hay in 

97 



place. Cover top hutches, and space above, towai*d front ends, 
may be used to store extra feed and water dishes, etc. Make a 
conditioning', or work table, with drop legs, under either, or both, 
screened openings — each about 16 inches wide by 30 inches long. 
Studding is to be set to suit dimensions of hutches, note 
location as shown on Fig. 1. In cutting studding, observe that 
the pieces as billed are 14 ft. long — and that one piece cut will 
make one rear and one front studding. Double corner studding, 
also on each side of door. 



/ Ifi {e.e-'t 




ScTreene^ 
Opening 



fiq. 1 






Plates are to be laid double on front and rear walls — none 
needed on sides. 

Rafters spaced 32 in. center to center. 

Uprights are to be cut as follows: Four of them to reach 
from floor to top of top hutch, and placed one at each front out- 
side corner of hutches to support hutches. The other two are to 
be cut to reach from floor to bottom edge of middle rafter to 
help support roof and hutches of middle group. 

In building the hutches, hutch floor joist should be 2^ feet 
long for side tiers, and 5 feet long for middle group of hutches. 

98 



Spike to studding and uprights, excepting middle joist can be 
spiked only on studding end on outside tiers, and to middle up- 
right in middle group. The outside end of these middle joists are 
to be supported by face strips and one by eight uprights as 
shown in Fig. 2. 

Run floor lengthwise and nail to joist with groove edge to- 
ward front. Plane front board to a square edge and let it pro- 
ject over and come flush with front top edge of face strip. 

To get the proper slope to floor for drainage, rip a strip 
from the top edge on each end of the 5 foot joist, 1% inches wide 
at the end to a point at the middle. The 2% foot joist may be 
ripped the same way, or simply lower the outer end 1% inches. 

Removable nest boxes should be provided. A good one is 
a box 18 in. long, 12 in. wide and 12 in. high, with a removable 
cover. The top of this box provides a good place for the mother 



^TT^ of f/ooy-S=>'--^^- 




JSottOm T'txytilian. Qo<kvc( 

/"X y" 



flQ 2,, 



doe to retreat from too persistent youngsters. A hole, cut from 
top edge, 8 in. deep and 6 in. wide, furnishes means of ingress 
and egress. 

The above drawing shows construction of front of hutches, 
hutch door, and feed rack partition. Note also location of end 
of floor joist. This does not show in the completed work, the 
face strip being nailed into end of joist, and then the two 1 by 8 
uprights nailed on, edge to edge as shown. Before nailing on 
the uprights, cut the pieces as billed, into 7 foot lengths, then 
hold up and mark at the bottom of each face strip; cut in 4 inches 
and rip off triangular piece as shown, and then place the two 
boards with cut edges together as shown, to form openings to 
hay racks. These uprights, together with the face strip, sus- 
tain weight of outer end of middle floor joist, the other end be- 
ing nailed to studding. 

Partitions of hutches are made by using a piece 1 in. by 4 in. 
at bottom and stapling one inch mesh poultry netting to top 

99 



edge on each side, extending to top of hutch and attaching about 
live inches bacli from the vertical, thus forming a V shaped hay 
rack about ten inches wide at the top, and running to a point 
at the top of the four inch bottom strip. This rack can be used 
from either or both sides, and is easily filled through the V shap- 
ed opening in the upright boards, without opening any doors or 
other contrivance — a great saver of time. 

Attach the wire netting to door frames en the inside, so 
rabbits will not gnaw corr.ers of frames. 

Front Elevation of Ideal Rabbitry 

The entire front is sided up 2y2 feet from the bottom, and 
extends three feet from each corner the balance of the way up. 
The door should be not less than 2 ft. 8 in. wide, and upper part 
covered with wire netting as shown. The two wire covered 
openings should be exactly the same size, so muslin covered 
frames are interchangeable. 




r^c^ 3 

A "hood," two feet wide and twelve feet long, may be ex- 
tended from top of front, projecting over the door and openings. 
This will keep out rain and snow under ordinary conditions, with- 
out having to put up the muslin covered frames, and is very de- 
sirable in sections where sudden or severe storms prevail. 

Advantages claimed for the Ideal, over the long type house 
are: First, Economy: The long type house, to contain the same 
amount of hutch room requires 720 lineal feet dimension stuff; 
the Ideal, but 490; The long type, 101 feet foundation; the Ideal, 
60 feet. The long type, 682 sq. ft. side wall; the Ideal, 405. The 
long type, 299 sq. ft. roof; the Ideal, 255. The long type, 247 
feet floor; the Ideal, 224. The long type requires on an average 
about 45 per cent, more material than the Ideal, an item worth 
considering'. 

Second, Convenience: In the long type, one would have to 
walk 90 feet to inspect the entire rabbitry and return to the 

100 



door; in the Ideal, only 40 feet. In the long type, it is 45 feet 
from the door to the farthest point in buildings; in the Ideal, but 
15 feet. In the long type, one can clean three hutches, or fill 
three hay racks without moving from his tracks; in the Ideal, he 
can attend to twice that number — each side of aisle. 

Third, Adaptability: The long type house is too narrow to 
be practical for hardly any other purpose. Supposing one gives 
up rabbit raising at some time in the future, or wishes to sell, 
and prospective purchaser is not interested in rabbits, then the 
building is not much of an asset. A building less than twelve 
feet wide is not suitable even for a hen house. 

The Ideal is of dimensions that it can be easily and economi- 
cally converted to use for many different purposes — ipoultry 
house, tool house, storage room, wagon and buggy shed, garage, 
cow barn, sheep shed, etc., etc., according to individual needs of 
ownei'. 

Fourth, Superiority in Light and Ventilation: In the long 
type house with the entire front open, plenty of ventilation is 
obtained, but is rather drafty. On stormy days, there is an ex- 
cess of openings that must be closed with muslin curtained 
frames. In hot weather, there is an excess of light and heat, 
and awnings must be provided to shade the hutches. On the 
other hand, if the front is partly closed then drafts are prevent- 
ed, but part of the hutches are protected from the sun's hot 
rays, and part are not; while the ventilation is unequally dis- 
tributed. 

In the Ideal, there is no hutch that does not receive direct 
light at some time during the day; none but what are entirely 
shaded part of the day, and at least partly shaded all of the 
time. The ventilation is perfect, reaching every corner of the 
building without possibility of a draft. In stormy and extreme- 
ly cold weather, there are only three small curtained frames to 
place, as compared with four times that in the other type house. 

The bill of material, instructions, and cuts shown herewith 
will enable anyone with ordinary mechanical ability to construct 
his own rabbitry without hiring expensive labor. If one wishes 
to increase the size of his rabbitry, he can easily add one or 
more units at any time. Simply remove the feed rack or bins at 
either corner, cut an opening through, and build on another unit 
at that end. In this case, the siding on that end should not be 
removed, as it is needed to prevent drafts — simply cut an open- 
ing large enough for a door. Each unit added should be just 
like the original, excepting of course, the expense of one side 
wall will be saved, and the front door on added units may be 
dispensed with, using a wire covered opening instead. 

101 



Yards 



By C. R. Deardorff 

Natural conditions, as nearly as it is possible to provide 
them, will go far toward assuring good health and vigor in 
rabbits, just as with poultry and other stock. If one has room 
to arrange outdoor runs or yards for his rabbits, he will be 
amply repaid, not only in the increased health and vigor of his 
stock, but he will find the problem of care reduced to a minimum. 

For breeding does, outdoor hutches may be built, as outlined 
in the preceding chapter, which may be greatly improved by 
attaching a movable yard to be used therewith. A good plan is 
to build a pen, or cage, about 3 feet wide and three feet high, and 
six to ten feet long. Use 1 by 4 stuff to make the frame, cover 
top and bottom with two inch poultry mesh, both sides and one 
end with one inch mesh. At the open end place the nest box, 
making some convenient arrangement for feeding, watering, etc. 
The nest box should be raised from the ground a few inches, and 
made damp-proof and draught-proof, and should be easily de- 
tached from yard to facilitate handling and moving. This out- 
fit can be moved from place to place on a grassy plot, and thus 
avoid contaminating the ground, as well as providing bunny 
with fresh grass to nibble at every day. A splendid hutch to use 
with such a yard can be arranged by taking a good water-tight 
barrel, knocking out the side bung and covering hole on inside 
with wire screen. Place this barrel on supports hollowed out to 
fit the side of barrel, with bung-hole side down, to provide for 
drainage. 

Another good plan, but one involving more expense, is to 
build a series of narrow yards, say 3 or 4 feet wide, and as long 
as space and means will permit. Previous to building your 
yards, level the ground nicely, cover the space to be used with 
two inch poultry mesh and on top of the mesh spread an inch or 
two of good soil. Seed this down with a good grass suitable to 
the locality, or "sod" it over with cut sod. When well sodded you 
are ready for your yards, which should be built of one inch net- 
ting and covered with two inch netting to keep out cats. Build 
individual hutches, each two feet wide, two feet high and three 
feet long, with a nest box in one end from 12 to 18 inches wide 
(according to the size of your rabbits) and 12 inches high. The 

102 



top board of this nest box should be removable to permit examin- 
ation and cleaning of the nest. This top board also provides 
a retreat for the mother when the youngsters persist in annoy- 
ing her after leaving the nest. With such a system, it is neces- 
sary to provide yards in excess of the number of breeding does, 
so no one yard need be used continuously, else the sod would be 
destroyed. The hutches should be located at the end of the yards 
and moved along from yard to yard as the grass becomes ex- 
hausted. If one has a good sod, one hutch to every three yards 
would probably be sufficient in most cases. 

The expense can be considerably reduced by dispensing with 
the sodding, but in that case the bottom wire should be placed at 
least six inches beneath the surface, and the soil to the depth of 
about five inches renewed at least twice a year to prevent con- 
tamination of the soil with disease germs. In this case it will 
not be necessary to build individual hutches, but instead build 
one long continuous hutch two feet high and two wide and divide 
into compartments as long as the width of the yards. The roof 
should be divided into sections and hung on hinges to provide 
access to each compartment. 

Several yards should be provided for the youngsters after 
they are weaned so that those of nearly an even age only need 
be yarded together. These yards should be enclosed with one 
inch mesh sunk into the ground an inch or two, and should be 
covered with two inch mesh to keep out cats, or if one has rather 
large yards, he can save expense and serve the same purpose by 
attaching horizontal pieces about a foot long and extending out 
from top of post. Let the netting of the fence turn outward at 
the top of post and extend to the ends of these cross-pieces. This 
will form an angle over which a cat cannot crawl, and will form 
a very effective protection. It will not be necessary to cover the 
bottom of these yards with netting as rabbits do not dig until 
approaching maturity. 

Separate the males from the females as soon as the sex can 
be determined. If any of the males are to be castrated, they may 
be left with the females or turned with the males — it does not 
make much difference, although if breeding on a somewhat large 
scale, it would be advisable to provide a separate yard for cas- 
trated bucks. 

To maintain peace among the rabbits in the yard system it 
must be remembered that strange rabbits must not be turned 
with another bunch after they have reached a "scrapping" age. If 
found necessary to unite several lots, it may sometimes be ac- 
complished without much trouble by putting the whole lot 
together in a new location, but never by putting a lot with an- 

103 



other lot in a location already occupied for some time by any of 
the bunch. The older residents will resent the coming of the 
others. By putting the whole lot in a strange location, they will 
usually be so occupied with their curiosity of their strange sur- 
roundings that they may forget their animosity toward each 
other. This scheme will, however, seldom work with breeders 
that have become accustomed to separate hutches. 

Bucks will often get along amicably together long after 
reaching maturity if yarded at some distance from the does, and 
not used for breeding. 

The necessary number of hutches should be scattered aroun.l 
the yards to provide shelter from the weather, and should be 
damp-proof and draught-proof. They may be of most any style 
pleasing to the breeder, but should be of small size and numer- 
ous, rather than one big hutch, so the more timid ones may 
secure seclusion from those that are inclined to be pugnacious. 
The writer has found it to be a most satisfactory practice to set 
up a few fodder shocks around in the yards of the half-grown 
and more mature animals. This provides not only an ideal shel- 
ter and place of refuge, but abundant rough feed, which accomp- 
anied by a little extra feed to vary the diet, will carry a bunch 
of rabbits through the winter in fine shape. 

We will close this chapter by giving a little stunt the writer 
has tried out in a limited way, to prevent rabbits from digging 
and also to prevent fighting to a certain extent — or at least pre- 
vent serious damage from fighting. The system can only be used 
on animals not intended for the show room, as the operation dis- 
qualifies them. It has been found to work very satisfactorily in 
most cases, and is simply this: Clip the end off each toe-nail just 
so it brings a tiny drop of blood. 

Will just add that snuffles and its kindred diseases are 
strangers in a rabbitry conducted intelligently and systematically 
on an out-door system. 



104 



Preparation for Show Room 

By Dr. Roth 

The inherent desire within the breast of man is to produce 
something just a little better than his brother, to show it just a 
little better than his brother, and to win just a few more blue 
ribbons in keen competition in the show room. 

When one desires to exhibit at shows with the hope of win- 
ning prizes, some special attention to stock beforehand is neces- 
sary and if several consecutive exhibitions are scheduled one 
must not forget that such journeys with their incident "wear 
and tear" will be a severe tax on the constitutional stamina of 
finely bred specimens. Many an excellent rabbit has been de- 
stroyed by overshowing, or insufficient attention connected with 
the journey. And we have no short distances of shipment, either, 
nor do the express companies run special cars for exhibits of 
this sort. Reading over the excellent show reports by our Eng- 
lish fancier friends, I was often amused at the concern that 
occupies them with regard to distances, which at most is rarely 
beyond 200 miles, and seldom above 50. Here we are obliged to 
consider time rather than distance, and very seldom, except with 
small local shows, that less than 600 miles are involved. 

Make careful selection of the specimens intended for exhibi- 
tion, and say 4 or 5 days before date of shipping, place each sep- 
arately in a coop as near the size to be occupied at the show as 
one can arrange, and something within about 10 degress as warm 
as one would think the show room to be. This consideration is 
quite necessary, and all the more so when stock has been open- 
air' reared. The fact that rabbits are fur animals, and thus quite 
densely clothed, seldom finds thought in the heads of show com- 
mittees, who more often place such exhibits in steam heated 
rooms than a proper environment. 

Coops containing exhibits must be kept scrupulously clean 
so as to obviate all danger of soiling the fur, which should every 
morning be liberally sprinkled with talcum powder, nicely tous- 
led through as to get near the skin, and then combed and brush- 
ed until the powder is all worked out. First two days use a 
wire brush, and subsequently a medium soft bristle. Use no 
water or cosmetics of any kind unless there is some disease of 
the skin that needs attention. Under the chin and belly stroke 

105 



the fur with a small round stick shaped like a baton or drum- 
stick. This will bring out contour to the head and body, and 
acquaint the specimens with the pose expected by the judge. 
This attention must be applied only to bucks of the Flemish var- 
iety, and not to does. The latter must be stroked entirely by 
hand, and the dewlap gently manipulated, so as to assume cor- 
rect position and shape — evenly placed beneath the chin. 

There is a popular notion that raw egg fed to a fur animal 
will produce "sleek coat," and that gunpowder fed to a horse 
will increase his action. Now while many of these "notions" 
appear amusing, and often quite worthless, there are others, 
withal, that have more practical sense than humor; for in the 
above there exists no small physiological virtue. Egg, we know, 
is rich in albumen, and gunpowder in the necessary reconstruc- 
tive elements — carbon, potash, nitrate, phosphorus, and sulphur, 
which enter into tissue construction of which nerve and muscle 
is made up. 

Raw egg can be given in the form of flip, which is made by 
beating one in a cup of sweet milk, add a teaspoonful of sugar, 
and two tablespoons of Sherry wine or brandy. If the animal 
will npt drink this out of a dish, it can be given by spoon, or 
pipette. 

Whole wheat added to oats is also excellent a few days be- 
fore showing. It is rich in gluten, and this latter puts "bloom" 
on the fur. 

After return from the show, an egg-flip is again a good 
"pick-me-up" for the effects of wear. 

Have the shipping coops sufficiently roomy so as not to 
crowd, floor well littered with saw dust or chaff, and ventilation 
for comfort. 

In the Belgian Hare the animal should be long and thin, both 
in body and limbs. The ears should be long and carried well 
backward. There should be practically no ticking at the selection 
age, say three or four months. The hind feet should be level in 
color, the same being carried well up the hock. One mistake is 
often made in selecting specimens that show choppiness, but my 
advice is to get rid of these at all costs. You have here a small 
gauge to select promising youngsters by. After having made 
your selection they should be placed in large, roomy hutches, fed 
on stimulating diet and should have every care and attention paid 
them. Don't understand this to apply to all varieties of rab- 
bits, for it is my intention to apply the above only to the Belgian 
Hare. What would be necessary in the selection of the Belgian 
Hare would be fatal to a Flemish Giant. Condition, however, 
must not be misunderstood. It does not represent fat or bulky 

106 



station. It appeals to me as a means whereby specimens exhib- 
ited may be shown in a state representing a high standard of 
excellence, consistent with the points of the variety. 

In all varieties shape must be given first consideration and 
it is absolutely necessary that youngsters be given as much 
exercise as possible. It is well to construct a running hutch with 
a jumping board across the middle, compelling them to race 
around the hutch and in jumping over the hurdle they will harden 
the flesh and decrease the size of the stomach. The exercise, too, 
is also important to increase the length of limb. Many English 
breeders in preparing choice youngsters for exposition, or when 
the specimens are under a great strain, advocate the use of egg 
flip. Give each rabbit a teacupful for the evening meal. While 
for the morning meal, give a little green stuff and the best oats 
and wheat mixed, two-thirds oats, one-third wheat, while a little 
clover hay should be added to the morning or midday meal. 

One of the great secrets of success is in proper grooming. 
With the short coated varieties a thorough rub with the bare 
hands, following it up with a dry chamois skin, is all that is nec- 
essary. There is nothing better than a low table to use for 
grooming. Cover it with a piece of carpet or clean sack, nailing 
it down so that the specimen may have something to grip on to 
with his feet. You will find this a comparatively easy way to 
groom them. When the specimens are moulting they should be 
groomed at least once a day and their housing should be care- 
fully looked after for they are very susceptible to cold at this 
time. Place the specimen on the table and vigorously rub the 
coat in the direction in which it lies and persevere until all the 
loose coat is removed, finishing off with briskly rubbing the speci- 
men all over with a dry chamois skin. Belgian Hares need a 
little attention to the fore legs when moulting its young coat. It 
should be held firmly by the ears and the other hand should be 
used to pull the legs one at a time, allowing the hand to slip 
so that all the loose fur may be removed. Under no considera- 
tion resort to plucking for this is altogether outside the province 
of grooming and can at once be detected by any competent judge 
and the specimen would be disqualified. Specimens thus handled 
have the advantage of not only being well groomed but at the 
same time, well trained and this is absolutely necessary for suc- 
cess in the show room. There is nothing more trying to a judge 
than to have a wild, restless, untrained specimen to handle, and 
in many instances specimens have gone down that if properly 
handled before the show, would have been easy winners. 



107 



The Rabbit Hospital and 
Medicine Chest 

By C. K. Deardorff 

Every well regulated rabbitry should have its hospital ward 
and medicine chest. For your hospital ward, a few hutches may 
be partitioned off from the others in your regular rabbitry, or, 
better yet, built in a corner of some convenient building at some 
distance from your rabbitry. These hutches should be well ven- 
tilated, without being drafty, and should be kept scrupulously 
neat and clean. These hospital hutches, as well as the entire in- 
side of your rabbitry, should be painted with a good disinfecting 
white water-mixed paint, or prepared whitewash. P^or this pur- 
pose nothing is better than the following: Slack 25 tbs. good lime, 
while still in a doughy state, mix with one pint crude carbolic 
acid, then with sufficient water to make a good whitewash. Apply 
two coats, allowing the first to dry before applying the next. 
Apply a new coat each spring and fall. The floors of all hutches 
should be painted with two or three coats of a good waterproof 
black roof paint. It is best to paint the floors when first laid and 
before applying whitewash to the walls. In building the floors, 
use matched flooring, painting each tongue and groove with 
white lead or roof paint as it is being laid. Glazed feed and wa- 
ter dishes are best as they have no pores or cracks to harbor 
disease germs. Clean them daily, and disinfect by scalding two 
or three times per week — daily in case of infectious disease. 

Now as to your medicine chest. The drugs and medicines 
you should have available at all times are mostly those that are 
indispensable to, and usually kept in the family medicine chest. 
There is no particular reason for keeping a separate collection 
for your rabbitry — it is sufficient to see that the articles are 
kept on hand and available to use when needed. The following 
list will be found to cover the needs of the average breeder, and 
will also be in demand for use about the home, and for home 
treatment of minor human ills. 

Absorbent cotton, carbolated vaseline, castor oil, Epsom or 
Rochelle salts, common baking soda, tincture of aconite, sulphate 
of magnesia, tincture of nux vomica, spirits of turpentine, spirits 
of camphor, sweet oil, sulphur, carbolic acid, sweet spirits of 
nitre, permanganate of potash, pulverized arrowroot, boracic 

108 



acid, peroxide of hydrogen, and perhaps a few others as occasion 
demands. 

'The more common uses for which the above drugs may be 
needed, also the dosage, are as follows: 

Carbolated vaseline for annointing wounds and sores, and in 
connection with other drugs as a basis for salves and ointments. 
Castor oil, one of the best laxatives and corrective for stom- 
ach disorders. Dose, one tablespoonful. 

Epsom or Rochelle salts, two other splendid laxatives, and 
will correct liver troubles. Dose, half a teaspoonful dissolved 
in a little water. 

Common baking soda will relieve a sour stomach and correct 
evil effects of soured or spoiled foods. Dose, one third of a level 
teaspoonful dissolved in a little water. To treat a number of 
specimens collectively, dissolve a heaping teaspoonful to a quart 
of water and keep before them several days. 

Tincture of aconite is splendid for relief of colds, catarrh 
and in allaying fever. Will prevent and cure snuffles in its first 
stages. Dose, three to five drops in a teaspoonful of water. 

Sulphate of magnesia, ten drops to a pint of drinking water, 
will relieve costiveness. 

Tincture of nux vomica, ten drops to a quart of drinking 
water, is recommended as a stimulant for the digestive organs, 
and is said to stimulate the genital organs and induce backward 
does to breed. 

-Spirits of turpentine, one part to five parts sweet oil will 
relieve bronchial affection, such as rattling in the throat. Dose, 
ten drops daily to an afflicted specimen. As a worm medicine, 
mix equal quantities of turpentine and sweet oil and give thirty 
drops. Follow in a couple hours with a tablespoonful castor oil. 
Avoid giving turpentine to a pregnant doe. 

.Sweet oil, as above, and with sulphur as below. Also as a 
mild laxative. Dose, two tablespoonfuls. 

iSulphur, mix with sweet oil and apply with a swab for ear 
canker, mange, etc. 

Spirits of camphor is a good remedy for slight cases of 
diarrhea — add a few drops to the drinking water. Also good for 
bruises and sores where the skin is unbroken. 

Carbolic acid as a deodorizer and disinfectant. For deodor- 
izing and disinfecting feed and water dishes, when boiling water 
is not conveniently at hand, use a two per cent, solution to rinse 
dishes after thoroughly washing with water and soap. To 
cleanse castrating knife, and to wash hands before and after 
treating a wound or open sore, use same strength. To spray 
floor and walls of hutches, use a four or five per cent, solution. 

100 



(( 



iSweet spirits of nitre for kidney trouble. Dose, six drops 
in a teaspoonful of water. 

rermanganate of potash as an antiseptic to cleanse the sys- 
tem of disease perms and to prevent the spread of colds, bron- 
chitis and similar troubles. Dose, about as much as will lay on 
a dime to a gallon of drinking water — enough to color the water 
to a deep purple. 

Pulverized arrowroot. Dose, one teaspoonful to a cup of 
milk, given daily until relieved, is a good remedy for diarrhea. 
In severe cases, or in dysentery, give twice a day a teaspoonful 
of warm water to which has been added three drops oil of pepper- 
mint and one drop of ether. 

•Boracic acid as a cleansing and healing agent for open sores 
and sore eyes. Sprinkle sores with the dry powder. For sore 
eyes, dissolve a tablespoonful in a pint of boiling water, and 
when cold bathe the eyes thoroughly. 

Peroxide of hydrogen, as a cleansing agent to remove and 
prevent infection of sores and wounds with disease germs. Con- 
trary to popular belief, it has no particular healing value to a 
fresh wound that has not become infected. 

There are a number of meritorious preparations on the mar- 
ket designed to keep bunny in good health, but if the breeder will 
exercise good judgment in the matter of feed and sanitation, he 
can, with the aid of the drugs mentioned, successfully combat ' 
nearly every ill that may visit his rabbitry. As to tonics, the 
following well known articles will usually suffice without resort- 
ing to "condition powders" of unknown composition and uncer- 
tain value. Don't use any of them to excess and don't try to use 
the whole list at one time. Remember I am recommending them 
as occasional tonics and not as a regular diet. 

They are — the bark from an apple tree branch — ^Throw the 
branch to bunny, it will strip the bark as it wants it; A few 
used tea leaves mixed with the regular mash occasionally; A few 
drops of sweet spirits of nitre in the drinking water; A pinch 
of sulphur in the feed occasionally — careful, not too much; A 
few drops tincture aconite in the drinking water — about ten 
drops to the gallon. I 

Sometimes a tonic is advisable to help prevent the spread of 
colds, snuffles, etc. The following is recommended: 

Magnesium Sulphate 10 oz. 

Sulphur 3 oz. 

Magnesium Oxide 1 oz. 

Sulphate of Iron 2 oz. 

Ground Ginger 2 oz. 

Mix and feed in mash at rate of one tablespoonful to ten 
rabbits. 

no 



Sometimes rabbits become emaciated, weak and unproduct- 
ive without showing signs of actual illness. It may be worms; if 
so, treat accordingly, but if not and no other apparent cause, it 
is probably what is known as asthenia, or "going light," just a 
gradual wasting away. For this, give the following tonic: 30 
grains each of powdered fennel, anise, coriander seed, cinchona, 
one dram each of powdered gentian and ginger, and 15 grains of 
powdered sulphate of iron. Mix thoroughly and give four grains 
in food twice daily. 

The dosage given above in each case is for mature rabbits. 
For younger animals, give correspondingly smaller doses, as for 
instance — half above doses to four months old specimens, quar- 
ter doses at six to eight weeks of age. 

INDIGESTION 

I have been requested to add a paragraph on indigestion. 
This trouble is caused from overfeeding, or unbalanced ration, 
such as too much dry feed or concentrated feeds. The affected 
animal will mope in a corner of the hutch and refuse feed. It 
appears to be in great pain and will sometimes, when forced to 
move, drag its hind parts as in first stages of paralysis. The 
bowels appear distended and hard. 

Treatment: Give a tablespoonful castor oil; if not relieved 
in two or three hours, repeat. Reduce the grain and dry feed ra- 
tion and feed more greens or succulent feeds such as carrots and 
mangels. 

(NOTE — The writer receives a great many requests for ad- 
vice as to home treatment, questions of housing, care, etc. Most 
enquirers fail to give sufficient data to enable me to form an in- 
telligent diagnosis of their troubles. That I may be able to give 
better service to enquirers, and to avoid unnecessary corres- 
pondence, I have prepared an "Information Blank," a copy of 
which will be mailed on request. This blank, carefully filled out 
and returned will give me a much better idea of the nature of 
your trouble, than a long rambling letter. Address me at North 
Judson, Ind.— JC. R. D.) 



in 



Ailments of Rabbits 

By Dr. Koth 

Rabbits of all kinds are remarkably free from disease if 
they are properly cared for. With many years of breeding to my 
credit, I find that prevention is the best possible cure. There is 
too much coddling of rabbits and they are as a consequence, not 
hardy enough. If you have vigor and pay for the proper atten- 
tion to feeding, housing and sanitation, you will have little or no 
disease. Under no condition breed from stock that is suffering 
from snuffles, scurvy and vent disease. If you wish to build up a 
stud that will be permanent and a pleasure to you, it is absolutely 
necessary that you breed from specimens that are perfectly 
sound and healthy. 

SNUFFLES 

We are preaching the gospel of fresh air and it is one of the 
very best preventions of many diseases. Above all, get busy and 
correct the first symptom of disease. As a general thing in the 
early stages it is easy to cure but after well seated it is almost 
impossible to affect a satisfactory cure. The most prevalent dis- 
ease is the snuffles. Common sense methods in selection and 
housing has very materially reduced this disease and yet they are 
susceptible at all times to colds. When the first appearance of 
a cold or sneezing appears the specimens should be taken in hand 
at once. One of the very best remedies to administer is ten drops 
of tincture of aconite in the homeopathic form in a drink of 
water or milk. Rabbits suffering from snuffles should be kept 
in a warm, well ventilated hutch, well bedded with hay and thor- 
oughly disinfected. Easy digested foods should be given them. 
Boracic powder and iodoform powder in epual parts blown up 
the nostrils has been used with excellent results. 

(NOTE. The question has arisen as to whether ten drops 
of aconite as prescribed above is not too much, or whether Dr. 
Roth meant ten drops to one dose. I think he meant it as one 
dose, but am inclined to think it rather strong. I usually pre- 
scribe three to five drops in a teaspoonful of water, given twice 
or three times daily according to age and severity. However, 
it should be remembered that tincture of aconite is not made as 
strong as it was several years ago, and ten drops could probably 
be safely given in severe cases. As the tincture was formerly 
made, the dosage prescribed for humans was one to five drops — 
now it is given as five to fifteen drops. C. R. D.) 

112 



SLOBBERS 

Indigestion is the cause and should be treated as follows: 
Take one tablespoonful each, chlorate of potash and powdered 
ginger, adding one pint of water; let stand for a few hours, shake 
thoroughly and give teaspoonful doses twice a day. 
PARALYSIS 

There is no cure for this. You will find the animal dragging 
its hind quarters around the hutch as though the hip bones were 
broken. Kill at once and put it out of its misery, 
SKIN ERUPTIONS 

Treat these with an ointment made of equal parts of petrol- 
eum jelly and flour of sulphur, rubbing it well into the scurf. If 
you are troubled with sore hocks resulting from dirty hutches, 
apply the same remedy. 

DIARRHEA 

Youngsters are particularly troubled with this disease after 
they have just been weaned. Sudden weather changes such as 
excessive heat or excessive cold will cause it and in some instan- 
ces is the result of fright. An abundance of green food, if too 
wet or stale, will often cause it. When the symptoms are first 
noticed, all green food should be removed and they should be fed 
on old clover hay and dry grains. Mix one teaspoonful of pulver- 
ized arrowroot in a teacupful of milk and give the specimen daily 
until the diarrhea is checked. Fine sawdust acts as a disinfectant 
and is a splendid floor covering and absorbent during' this period. 
EAR CANKER 

This is a very troublesome disease and extremely painful to 
the animal. If proper attention was paid to cleanliness there 
would be little trouble along this line. The symptoms are a thick 
yellow discharge from the inside of one or both ears; the eye on 
the side that is affected appears to be very weak, with a slight 
discharge; the rabbit loses condition and does not relish its food. 
The discharge from the ear arises from ulceration in the deep 
recess, and is difficult to cure. Clear out the discharge by a little 
pressure and a sponge or soft rag soaked in warm water, but 
take care that none of the water falls into the ear. When dry, 
drop into the ear finely powdered and dry boracic acid, or equal 
parts of subnitrate of bismuth and finely-powdered iodoform. 
The head should be held on one side, and either of the powders 
dusted into the ears twice a day, introducing the powder as far 
as possible. The animal should be fed upon the best food; and 
extra care in this respect will be required for if the rabbit be- 
comes weak its chances of recovery will be very slight. 

Another excellent remedy is an application of a mixture of 
sweet oil and sulphur, equal parts. One to three applications will 

113 



usually cure. Apply with a bit of cotton or soft cloth attached 
to a small stick. 

INSECT PESTS 

Fleas are a constant source of worry to rabbits, especially 
to Lops. Any good insect powder well worked into the skin will 
rid the specimens of these pests. After thoroughly dusting and 
rubbing it well into the coat, it is well to use a small tooth comb 
to remove them. A splendid insect powder is made of equal parts 
of Persian insect powder and tobacco powder well worked 
together. 

RUNNING AT THE EYES 

This is a common disease but is easily cured by placing a 
little zinc ointment on the eye-ball, closing the lid over it and 
working it in well. If you have a stubborn case, dissolve a table- 
spoonful of boi'acic powder in a pint of boiling water and when 
cold bathe the eyes thoroughly. If any running sores develop 
iodoform ointment will give immediate relief. 

CONSTIPATION 

This can readily be overcome by feeding an abundance of 
green stuff and cutting out the corn and hay, feeding only a 
meal mash, to which a little boiled linseed has been added. If no 
response to this treatment, give half a teaspoonful dose of syrup 
of buckthorn daily until again normal. 

SKIN TROUBLES 

There are a number of forms of skin ti-oubles resulting in 
bald patches. This should not be neglected for many valuable 
specimens have been ruined in this way. Cantharides ointment 
will kill the parasite and assist the fur to grow. 

ABORTION 

The prevention of abortion is difficult. Disinfect the hutches 
thoroughly and do not feed flowers of sulphur during the breed- 
ing seasons. 

VENT GLEET 

The cause of the disease has not as yet been thoroughly 
worked out. I am convinced that it is similar to gonoiThea in the 
human family. Isolate the specimen, disinfect the hutch from 
which it was removed. Give 30 grains Epsom Salts and twice a 
day inject a four per cent, solution of cocaine and immediately 
after a solution of nitrate of silver, four grains to the ounce. 
The fifth day commence a small copabia capsule daily and inject 
acetate of lead, 1 drachm to the pint. Feed rather low and dust 
any sore places outside with iodoform. Under no consideration, 
breed an animal showing the slightest symptoms of this disease. 

114 



Castration 



By C. R. Deardorff 

All males not intended or fit for breeding purposes should 
be castrated. The operation is very simple and should be in gen- 
eral practice by both the commercial breeder and the fancier. 
None but strictly high grade males should be used or sold for 
breeding purposes, and the temptation to sell males of inferior 
quality to the uniniated at high prices can be so effectively met 
in no other way as by following the practice of castrating all 
such at an early age. 

Castrated males do not fight and may be safely yarded to- 
gether in open yards in considerable numbers and varying ages. 
They grow faster, make bigger carcass, and produce meat of a 
much superior quality to that of the ordinary male. When it is 
desired to finish them off for market, they take on fat easily and 
quickly and on much less feed than animals not unsexed. 

To get best results, male rabbits should be operated on as 
soon as the organs begin to become prominent — usually at from 
two to three months of age in the heavier breeds, and a few 
weeks older in the small breeds. However, old males that have 
passed the age of usefulness as breeders, may be safely and 
profitably operated on, and end their careers as a meat product 
of very superior quality. 

The operation is best performed by two persons. The as- 
sistant should get down on his knees, and, grasping a front leg 
and a hind leg in each hand, hold the animal between his knees 
with its back toward his body. The operator should then (if 
right-handed) grasp a testicle between the thumb and forefinger 
of the left hand, pressing firmly between the organ and the body. 
With the right hand make a vertical cut in the skin as it is 
stretched tightly over the organ, just sufficient that the pressure 
of the left thumb and forefinger will cause it to pop out. Now 
grasp the testicle with the left hand and pull about two inches 
away from the body, then sever close to the body by using a 
scraping motion of the knife. By scraping the cord until it parts 
it will not bleed as with a direct cut. Eepeat the operation on 
the other testicle. Before commencing operations it is well to 
cleanse the castrating knife with a two per cent, solution of car- 
bolic acid. The wounds will heal rapidly and need no stitching or 
applications, except that in fly time, it is well to annoint the 
wounds with pine tar to keep flies and insects from annoying 
the animal. 

115 



Tanning the Skins 

By C. R. Deardorff 

Beautiful fur garments, rugs, mats, lap robes, etc., may be 
made from rabbit pelts, if taken during cold weather when the 
fur is in its prime. Perhaps the most economical and satisfac- 
tory way for the busy man is to send the pelts to a near-by tan- 
nery to have them tanned and made up, but there is satisfac- 
tion and pleasure to many people in doing things themselves. 
To such, this chapter is addressed. 

There are several preparations on the market which may be 
purchased, and if directions are carefully followed, will produce 
very satisfactory results. In all of these preparations, as well 
as the process described below, there is one essential to good 
results that must be remembered, and that is — the degree of 
softness and pliability in the texture of the finished article is 
largely dependent on the amount of elbow grease expended in 
the way of pulling, working and rubbing. 

To those who wish to follow the whole process of home tan- 
ning from start to finish, the following is recommended as re- 
liable and as giving excellent results: 

Trim the pelts and soak until soft, then remove the fleshy 
substances and soak in warm water for an hour. Now take 
borax, saltpeter and glauber salts, of each one-half ounce, and 
moisten with soft water sufficient to allow it to be spread on 
flesh side of skins. Put it on with a brush, thickest where the 
skin is thickest, double the skin together flesh side in, and keep 
in a cool place 24 hours, but not allowing it to freeze. 

Then, wash the skins clean and take sal-soda one ounce, 
borax one-half ounce, refined white soap two ounces, melt slowly 
together, being careful not to allow the mixture to boil, and ap- 
ply to the flesh side as at first. Roll up again and keep in a 
warm place 24 hours. 

Next, wash the skins clean as before, and apply two ounces 
of saleratus dissolved in hot (not scalding) rain water, sufficient 
to well saturate them. Dissolve in another solution, four ounces 
alum and eight ounces salt in hot rain watsr, and when cool 
enough to allow handling without scalding, put the pelts in and 
leave for twelve hours; then wring out and hang up twelve hours 
to dry. Repeat soaking and drying two to four times according 
to desired softness of skin when finished. 

Finish by pulling, working and rubbing, and finally rubbing 
with a piece of pumice-stone. 

116 




E 5 



E-5 



Nurse Does 



By C. R. Deardorff 

To get the best quality in fancy stock, it is not advisable to 
allow a mother doe to attempt to raise more than five or six 
youngsters, and sometimes it may be advisable to restrict the 
size of the litter to not more than three or four. Small litters 
are especially desirable in the case of the Giant varieties, where 
size of the mature specimen is of supreme importance. Many 
does will produce eight to ten, and sometimes more, young at 
each kindling. If nurse does are not available, the only thing to 
do is to reduce the size of litter by killing the poorest. It goes 
hard with most breeders, and especially beginners, to do this, 
but it pays in the increased value of the remaining youngsters 
and in the chances of raising them to maturity. 

In order that the breeder may avoid destroying any of the 
young from his most valuable does, and at the same time con- 
trol the size of their litters, it is advisable to keep on hand a 
number of nurse does. These may be the less valuable of his 
regular stock, or he may keep a variety especially adapted to 
this purpose. By many, the Dutch is considered as the best to 
use as nurse does. They are hardy, very attentive mothers, and 
give a good flow of milk. They are small eaters and therefore 
more economically kept than the larger varieties. 

When a breeding doe has accepted service, breed also, on 
the same day, one of your nurse does. In case the breeding doe 
is known to produce large litters, it may be advisable to breed 
two nurse does for her. It is a good idea to breed two regular 
breeding does and three nurse does on the same day if practical. 
An inferior male may be used for service to the nurse does, or 
any one of your stud bucks that will not be used excessively by 
such service. However, don't abuse Dutch does by breeding them 
to Giant bucks. 

When the does have kindled, remove and destroy the young 
of the nurse doe, and substitute a part of the litter you wish to 
preserve. Substitution in this way may usually be made at any 
time up until the time the young first leave the nest, but it is 
obviously advisable to divide the litter within the first two or 
three days. I prefer doing so on the second day after kindling. 

Attempts to substitute youngsters after they have left the 
nest are seldom successful. The doe is apt to resent and kill the 
strangers, but it seems she can only discover the deception when 
they are outside of the nest, and after they have escaped detec- 
tion in the nest for a few days, they acquire the nest odor, and 
are safe. 

119 



Pedigree and Registration 

By C. R. Deardorff 

The manner of making a pedigree is very nicely illustrated 
in the chapter on "Line-Breeding," and discussed there and under 
the subject of "Pedigrees," by Dr. Roth, elsewhere in this book, 
hence it is unnecessary for me to go into details on that subject. 
Will urge, however, that no breeder, of either commercial or 
fancy stock, should neglect to keep an accurate pedigree record, 
if not because of demand of the "fancy," then for his own guid- 
ance in the matter of intelligent breeding. 

Registration is a method devised to keep an accurate record 
of all high class breeding stock, available for inspection at all 
times by any one interested, and to act as a check to misrep- 
resentation of stock offered for sale or for stud service. Such 
systems have been worked out, and are in almost universal use, 
for all domestic ar)imals of high breeding — horses, cattle, hogs, 
sheep, dogs, cats, rabbits, etc. 

Excepting in detail of operation, all systems are practically 
the same and with the same end in view — to protect both the 
breeder and the buyer. In brief, the general plan is this: An 
accurate record is kept at a central or home office, of all register- 
ed animals — their pedigrees and ownership. Each animal is 
given a designated number of a consecutive series, and is ear- 
tagged or marked accordingly. It is an easy matter for the 
prospective purchaser to go to the records and verify any little 
tale of "winnings" or "breeding records," with which the versa- 
tile breeder may have been entertaining him. 

While it is practically impossible to devise a system that 
will be an absolute guarantee against trickery, yet it can be read- 
ily seen that with even a very laxly conducted system, consider- 
able protection is offered, and that it would be impossible or at 
least improbable, that a trickster could escape detection for any 
great length of time. 

At present thei'e are three systems of rabbit registration — 
I will not undertake to say which is the best, but will say that 
in this case, I would suggest "thie bigger the dose, the better the 
medicine." In other words, use all three of them. They are: 

The National Breeders and Fanciers Association, Secretary, 
C. S. (libson, 1045 W. Warren Ave., Detroit, Mich. This asso- 

120 



elation registers rabbits that are considered wortliy, only by ex- 
amination of specimens by oflicial registrars. Apply to secre- 
tary for name of nearest registrar. 

The United Kennel Club registers rabbits as well as dogs, 
cats, cavies, etc. This Club registers on "blood lines" alone — 
that is on pedigrees and previous registrations. No personal 
inspection. For blanks and pai'ticularc, write to United Kennel 
Club, 3410 Beach Ave., Chicago, 111. 

For registration in The Internatioral Hutch and Loft Asso- 
ciation, write to the secretary, L. E. Woods, 116 S. Salina St., 
Syracuse, N. Y. This association registers rabbits in two classes. 
For ordinary registration, pedigrees must be submitted and the 
animal pass personal inspection of an official registrar, as 75 per 
cent, perfect. For "Advanced Registration," the specimen must 
first be registered as above, and also include a record of show 
winnings to substantiate its claim to such registration. Apply 
to secretary for name of nearest registrar. 




Inside view of a type of Hutch in use by many Successful Breede 



121 



Condensed Information and 
Rules for the Rabbitry 

1 — (Be as quiet in the rabbitry as possible. 

2 — Exclude all strange dogs. 

3 — Avoid entering the rabbitry about mid-day, because at 
that time the inmates are generally asleep, and prefer quiet. 

4 — Be as regular as possible in the time of feeding. 

5 — Be equally so as to the days for thorough cleaning. 

6 — When any offensive smell is perceived in any hutch, find 
out the cause, and apply a remedy. 

7 — Never allow the first symptoms of any complaint or dis- 
ease to be neglected, for all ailments are more easily cured when 
treated at once. 

8 — Separate any diseased rabbit from the others as soon as 
discovered. 

9 — Frequently "look over" your stock yourself. 

10 — Examine the noses, eyes and roots of ears also the 
internal ear, to detect any appearance of scurf, mange, ear gum, 
or cancer. 

11 — Let the air of the rabbitry be renewed as frequently as 
possible, to insure health of inmates. 

12 — Keep the temperature of the rabbitry as genial and 
equitable as possible. 

13 — Keep the feeding dish for suckling does constantly re- 
plenished as the animals require more nourishment during 
that time. 

14 — In proportion to the number of rabbits the doe has been 
suckling, so regulate the time for her pairing again. 

15 — If the litters are too frequent the stock will be weak. 
Quality and quantity are both important, but one must be sub- 
sei-vient to the other. 

16 — Avoid handling young rabbits, especially when in the 
nests. 

17 — Exclude mice from the hutches or rabbitry if possible, 
for one mouse may cause the does to neglect their young ones. 

12?. 



18 — Never leave the rabbits to the care of inexperienced at- 
tendants. One day's ignorance as to their wants may perman- 
ently injure the stock. 

19 — If the rabbits are to be improved in condition, use but 
little green food. 

20 — Never give green food wet. 

21 — So-called "cheap" food is more expensive than the ap- 
parently dearer, which is more nutritious. The most wholesome 
saves both the pocket and the rabbits, as six months' trial will 
prove. 

22 — Use as few artificial means as possible in the rearing 
and management of your rabbits. 

23 — Protect them from a damp and foggy atmosphere as 
much as possible, as such is more injurious than a dry cold one. 

24 — Make a study of your rabbits, as to their habits and 
requirements, and experience, which will enable you to become 
a successful fancier, will be speedily gained. Never forget that 
rabbits are not the offensive creatures some persons would have 
you believe. In a well-arranged rabbitiy, where the health and 
comfort of the rabbits are studied there is little or no disagree- 
able smell. 

25 — If your buck is a good one do not allow him to serve 
more than three does per week. One service is sufficient and will 
produce as many or more young than two or three services. 

26 — Does may be kept together in one compartment until 
they are bred, but each buck must have a separate hutch after 
they are three months of age, or they will injure each other 
by fighting. 

27 — Bucks become virile at about four months of age, but 
do not reach perfection in form or coloration until about eight 
months old, and should not be used for breeding purposes until 
matured. 

28 — If a doe commences building her nest and pulling hair 
two weeks after being bred, it is almost a sure indication that 
she is not with young, and that she desires to mate. Breed her 
and thus save two weeks time in obtaining a litter. 

29 — lAlways take the doe to the buck's hutch when breeding, 
as she is less liable to fight if not in season, being in a strange 
place. Do not leave them together more than a few minutes, as 
this will decide the question either way. If the doe is unwilling 
to breed take her back to her hutch and try her next day, or 
until she will breed. 

123 



30 — Feed hay in suitable racks to prevent soiling and wast- 
ing. They may be made in any convenient manner to suit the 
fancy of the breeder. One inch mesh poultry netting tacked to 
one end of hutch, about three inches from floor at bottom, and 
inclining inwards toward the top, makes a very economical and 
convenient rack. 

81 — Place water di.shcs for breeding does high enough to 
prevent the youngsters from getting into them. They need no 
water until nearly weaning age if mother doe is properly fed 
and cared for. Always arrange water dishes in such a manner 
that they cannot be overturned and contents spilled. Feed greens 
the same way, high up so youngsters cannot reach them. They 
will pick up what the doe drops on the floor, which will usually be 
ample for them. 

32 — Never pick a rabbit up by its ears. When you see some 
one else do so, ask him how he would like the same treatment. 
To lift a rabbit, grasp the loose skin just behind the ears with 
one hand, and let the rump rest on the other. To carry it, al- 
low it to rest on the forearm, or on the body under your forearm, 
while controlling it by the grasp on the skin as before. 

33 — Keep hutches clean and disinfect occasionally. Cleanse 
feed and water dishes two or three times per week with boiling 
water — oftener if necessary. If you feed wet mashes or milk, 
cleanse after each feeding. Absolute cleanliness is essential to 
success with rabbits. 




A fiood Type of Bl.nck (Jiant 



124 



Preparation for the Table 

By C. R. Deardorlf 

Rabbit meat has been pronounced by physicians as one of 
the most nourishing meats and is especially suitable for conval- 
escents and people with weak stomachs. It can be prepared in a 
great many dainty and appetizing ways, but it will be the pur- 
pose of this chapter to give only a few of the more easily pre- 
pared and thoroughly reliable recipes, together with brief direc- 
tions for slaughtering and dressing the rabbit. 

While domesticated rabbit, at most any age or size, makes a 
very superior article of diet, if properly prepared, it is at its 
perfection at about two months of age. However, it is more 
profitable to kill at four to six months of age. At the latter age 
it has reached a size that represents a maximum of gain on a 
given amount of feed, and has sacrificed but very little in quality. 

To kill, take the animal by the hind legs in the left hand, let- 
ting the head hang downward, strike a quick and rather hard 
blow on back of the neck with the edge of the hand or with a 
small stick. Cut the throat at once and hang head downward by 
means of loops of cord (previously prepared) attached to the 
hind feet. Cut a small opening in the abdomen between the hind 
legs and fill the carcass with cold water two or three times. Re- 
move the pelt by first running the knife around the first joint of 
the hind legs, then slitting the skin from one joint to the other 
across near the tail. PYee the skin from the legs, turning it in- 
side out and drawing slowly down toward the head, leaving the 
fat attached to the carcass, and being careful to avoid tearing 
the thin flesh over the abdomen. Now cut the pelvis bone, work- 
ing carefully so as not to cut the walls of the intestinal tract at 
this place and open down to the neck. Remove the entrails, cut 
off" the feet and wash the carcass, thoroughly drying it with a 
clean cloth. The heart and liver are to be saved, also the head, 
after removing the eye-balls, if you wish it. Allow the carcass 
to stand in cold salt water an hour or so. 

When usirg more than one rabbit for any particular dish, 
animals of about the same age should be used so they will cook 
up evenly. If one has a cool place to hang them, the quality of 
the meat is much improved by killing a day or two in advance. 
In the winter, a considerable number may be killed and dressed 

125 



at one time and hung up to freeze, thus very greatly improving 
the quality ot the meat. 

FRIED RABBIT 
Use a young rabbit, six to eight weeks old, in no case over 
three months old, for best results. Cut in pieces and roll each 
piece in a mixture of flour, pepper and salt, and fry in butter 
and lard, as you would chicken, to a nice brown. Time, .30 to 50 
minutes according to age and size. 

FRIED RABBIT AND ONIONS 

This is a good one. Cut the carcass into joints, soak in salt 
water all night. Take two pounds of onions to each rabbit; peel 
and slice. Fry the sliced onions in good lard until they are 
nicely browned. Next, fry the joints of rabbit until they are 
nicely browned. Now put onions and rabbit together in a sauce- 
pan and stew very slowly. Season to taste when stewed. 

STEWED RABBIT 

Cut into joints, put in kettle with some small pieces of fresh 
poi'k. Add hot water and salt, cook until done and dry. Then 
fry for a short time and lift into a dish. Now make a nice brown 
gravy, by putting a tablespoonful of flour in the kettle and add- 
ing hot water. When done, pour over the rabbit. 

RABBIT PIE 

Joint the carcass and soak two hours in salt water. Put into 
sauce pan and stew until done and remove bones. Line sides of 
your baking pan with biscuit dough, put in the stewed rabbit, 
with a few slices of bacon — also a few cubes of beef, if liked. 
Put on the top crust, not forgetting to make a small hole in top 
for the steam to escape. Bake in a moderately hot oven about 
30 minutes. 

RABBIT AND DUMPLINGS 

Joint the rabbit and soak two hours in salt water. Take one 
large onion sliced. Pepper and salt to taste. Mix six or more 
suet dumplings. Put all in saucepan with some good stock, and 
stew slowly two hours. 

POTTED RABBIT 

Cut the meat off the bones into suitable sized pieces, place in 
individual jars with diced bacon and mushrooms. Boil the bones 
with what meat remains on them and the head, also a suitable 
amount of carrots, celery and onions, also a little thyme. Crush; 
salt and season to taste. Thicken slightly, strain to remove 
small pieces of bone and cover the meat in the jars with this, 
put on the lids and bake slowly until tender; serve in the jars. 

Where individual baking jars are not available, the follow- 
ing method can be used: 

126 



Another Method 

Pack the pieces of rabbit in a stone jar, filling in the spaces 
between with bacon and veal — a pound each — cut to dice, into 
which the liver of the rabbit has been mixed, cut fine; add mace, 
cloves, black pepper and salt to taste. Place thin slices of bacon 
on top. Cover with a lid of plain paste made of flour and water. 
Set the jar in a pan of water and bake in a slow oven. Keep 
from burning by placing a greased paper over the paste. Put 
no water on the meat. When done set away to cool, then pound 
the pieces of rabbit, bacon and veal to a paste, taking out the 
bones, and mix in the gravy from the bottom, if any. Add more 
seasoning if necessary. Press solid into cups or small jars, cover 
the top with melted butter, and set away in a cool place. 
RABBIT SALAD 

Use a rabbit that has been boiled until tender, cut into small 
pieces, and use three parts rabbit to one part celery, which has 
also been cut. For a dressing, use the yolks of four eggs, five 
tablespoonfuls vinegar, a little salt and pepper and one dessert 
spoonful of prepared mustard. Cook the dressing until it has 
appearance of custard, and mix thoroughly with the rabbit and 
celery when all are cold. Mix a cupful sweet cream with it when 
ready to serve. 

PRESSED RABBIT 

When rabbits get old they are very nice pressed, and are fine 
for a cold lunch. Boil until the meat begins to fall from the 
bones, grind or cut the meat fine and season with salt and pepper. 
Pour the broth over it and put all together into a vessel and 
cover with a plate and weight on top and let stand until cold, 
when it can be sliced and served. A little bacon added when the 
meat is boiling and ground up with the rabbit meat makes a 
desirable improvement. 

BROILED RABBIT 

Use a young rabbit, boil in salted water five minutes, dry 
and broil as quickly as possible. Dish on hot platter and season 
with salt, pepper and butter. 

ROAST RABBIT WITH ONIONS 

Place a layer of onions in the bottom of pan, then a layer 
of meat neatly cut, add another layer of onions, and alternate 
with meat until the pan is filled. Scatter a few small pieces of 
bacon or fresh pork through the rabbit meat. A double roaster 
is best, as it keeps in the steam more thoroughly. No water is 
needed, as moisture is furnished by the onions and meat. 

ROASTED RABBIT 

Soak rabbit in salt water thirty minutes, without cutting up. 
Grind or chop fine a slice of fat salt pork or bacon, and mix with 

127 



siinUieiit bri'ad ciunibs to lill the cavity. Season with minced 
onions and chopped j)arsley, salt and pepper to taste. Stuff the 
carcass with this mixture, cover with thin slices of bacon, pour a 
cup of water in the pan and bake one hour, basting frequently. 
Thicken the drippings with browned flour, season with salt and 
pepper. Serve on hot platter with slices of bacon, slices of lemon 
and lettuce. 

BAKED RABBIT 

Hone or not as desired. Lay alternate layers of rabbit and 
thin slices of bacon, season with thyme, sage and thin slices of 
onions. Partly fill the dish with water, bake in a slow oven for 
one and one-half hours. Use a deep covered baking pan, or 
casserole. 

FIRELESS COOKER METHOD 

This is delicious. Joint the rabbit. Cut the largest pieces 
to make the pieces as nearly uniform in size as practicable. 
Brown well in hot butter or bacon fryings. Place in tireless 
cooker vessel with just enough water to cover. Add finely chop- 
ped onion and parsley, and two or three slices bacon cut into 
small pieces. Salt and pepper to taste. Boil gently for thirty 
minutes, then place in fireless cooker for six hours. 

JELLIED RABBIT 

Boil until the meat will fall from the bones, and leave in 
the water over night. In the morning, chop fine, season with 
butter, pepper and salt, and press in a mold until firm. 

Or — Boil tender, cut in small pieces, and season with salt 
and pepper. Add a half box gelatine soaked in cold water to the 
liquor (not less tha.i a quart) in which the rabbit was boiled; 
strain through thin muslin, and when it begins to thicken, add 
the meat; put in molds and place on ice to harden. 

JELLIED RABBIT AND PIGS FEET 

This is a good one, especially fine for cold lunches. Use 
rabbit and pigs feet, about equal parts by weight; soak the pigs 
feet over night in cold water, clean and remove the toes. Soak 
the rabbit for the same length of time in salt water. Put both in 
a kettle with enough water to cover, add an onion finely minced. 
Boil until meat readily separates from the bones. Season with 
salt and pepper when nearly done. When done, lift from kettle, 
leaving the liquor to keep hot, and pick the meat into small' 
pieces. Put in crock and pour over the hot liquor, which should^^ 
be pretty well boiled down, but still suflicient to cover the meat 
in the crock. If an additional flavor and relish is desired, add 
to the hot liquor before pouring over the meat, pure vinegar, or 
spiced vinegar, in proportion of one-half cup to six pounds of 
meat. The whole mass should be thoroughly mixed in the crock 
and then set away to cool. Slice and serve cold. > 

12a 



!«■> — 



